Karnataka Road-trip: Trip Log

This is a trip log from our 18-day road-trip around Coastal and Western Karnataka (with a few days in Goa). Details of our daily itinerary have been mentioned, alongwith some tips and distance travelled during the day. This should help you plan the time required in each place, as well as things that can be covered in a day.

Travelled in: Jan-Feb 2013

Itinerary:

Bangalore-Sravanabelagola-Sakleshpur-Belur/Halebidu-Venoor-Moodabidri-Mangalore-Udupi-Goa-Gokarna-Murudeshwar-Hulgol-Bhadra-Bangalore

Day 1 - 15th Jan, Sravanabelagola & Sakleshpur

Left Bangalore at 7:15 am. Had breakfast at Café coffee day in Yadiyur. Reached Sravanabelagola at 10:15 am. Climbed 700-odd steps uphill, on the hot stone steps; heeding local advice, wore socks, which saved our feet from burning, as footwear is not allowed. Spent 2 hours looking at the Bahubali statue and other smaller shrines. Though Sravanabelagola in the heat had worn us down a bit, decided to brave 200 odd steps to Chandragiri, the hill opposite. The beautiful Parswanath statue was absolutely worth the climb! Spent an hour at Chandragiri, before leaving for Sakleshpur. After lunch at Channarayapatna, reached Sakleshpur at 4pm and drove on beyond to Mugilu, our home-stay. Spent the evening walking around meadows and went out to see stars after dinner, in the crystal-clear sky.

Kms covered: 266

Day 2 - 16th Jan, Sakleshpur

Woke at 6am - too cold! Woke again by 6:30, had coffee and left for a trek. Walked through the meadows, up another hill and down to a stream. Back after 2 hours, for breakfast and a nap, to get rid of fatigue from yesterday. After lunch, left for Belur, to see the Chennakesava temple. Tip - the temple faces east so mornings will be best time to visit. The craftsmanship of the temples defies descriptions! Left the temple after spending 3 hours there; much more than we’d expected. So, had to abandon plans of visiting Halebidu. Returned to Mugilu at 8 pm, in pitch darkness.

Kms covered: 102

Total distance so far: 368

Day 3 - 17th Jan, Moodabidri and drive to Mangalore

Went for a walk in the meadows, in the morning. Left after breakfast, and drove via the highly scenic and winding Shiradi Ghat, alongside a beautiful river. Saw a quirky church and a wedding hall along the way. Quick lunch break at Uppinangadi, at hotel Aditya, on the highway. Good service and food. Drove towards Moodabidri - people directed us to a route via Bantwal, on BC road, but, decided to take the route via Belthangady. Gravel, single lane road for 3-4 kms, as work is going on. After Belthangady, reached Padangady and had a quick stop at a Jain temple there. Next, at Venoor, saw a temple accessed via high steps, but it was closed. But, saw a Gomateshwara statue and temple. Left Venoor at 4 pm and reached Moodabidri at 4:45 pm.

Went to Moodabidri’s famous 1000-pillar temple; the architecture was unique. Left after an hour and went hunting for the ‘guide-book recommended’ Guru basadi (Jain temple) on temple street. Got lost and saw a scenic old pond and Jain tombs instead. In fast-fading evening light, took the road behind the pond, got more lost, and met a priest sweeping the street. Saw his Hira basadi, with beautiful mud tirthankaras and goddesses Padmini and Lakshmi. The joys of getting lost! Finally, the priest directed us to Guru basadi, and we saw the evening aarti. Left Moodabidri at 6:45 pm, almost 2 hours behind our preferred schedule, to avoid night driving. Reached our hotel in Mangalore (35 kms away) at 8 pm.

Kms covered: 192
Total distance so far: 560

Day 4 - 18th Jan, Udupi & St. Mary’s

Awoke late and left only at 10 am, to Malpe dock and pier for the St. Mary’s ferry. From Mon-Fri, fixed departures are only at 10 am and 3 pm. But, if they have a minimum of 30 people, they depart even at other times. It takes 30 min to reach the island and the ferry will wait for 1 hour, to bring you back. Speedboats are supposed to be available from Malpe beach, which takes only 15 min. Tip - choppy waters, so take medicine; and, speedboats may be a bad idea for the same reason. We had very few people waiting so decided to not waste time and went to Udupi instead (20 min away).

Reached Udupi’s Car Street (pedestrians only) and had lunch of masala dosa and bun, Udupi style, at the famous ‘Mitra Samaj’. Went to Chandramoulishwara, Anantheshwar and Krishna temples. No photography is allowed at the Krishna temple. Had a jostled darshan; it was ‘Lakshmi alankaram’ for the idol as it was a Friday. Left Udupi and reached St.Mary’s ferry point for the 3 pm departure. St. Mary’s island is so beautiful but heavily littered, with broken alcohol bottles everywhere. It made me want to cry; we take no pride in whatever beauty our country has, and spoil it by littering. Reached the dock and drove back to Udupi by 5 pm, expecting to see the 'evening bustle', but there was none. The chariot was only going to be lit by 7 pm. Finally, at 6:30 pm, left Udupi and reached Mangalore for dinner. Went to iconic ‘Ideal’ and had local specialities - ghee roast and gadbad.

Kms covered: 140

Total distance so far: 700

Day 5 - 19th Jan, Mangalore and Kambala

After breakfast, went to Mangala Devi temple, Rozario cathedral and St.Aloysius chapel. Rozario has beautiful epitaphs. Aloysius has amazing paintings, frescoes and canvases; it took a little over 2 years to be painted by an Italian artist. There isn’t any other such painted chapel in the world, other than Sistine. Photography isn’t allowed. Went to ‘Ideal’ again, for lunch….hooked on to the local food. Left after lunch, to go to the Kambala (a ritual/sport of bullock racing) near Kinnigoli. Saw the Durga Parmeshwari temple at Kateel, en-route. It was originally very small, but has been expanded. No photography allowed inside. The idol is very different – a featureless black stone. We reached the Kambala venue by 4 pm, just as the main races were beginning. It was quite an experience to be a part of village festivities and to see the sheer muscle-power on display. Reluctantly left at 8:30 pm, as we had an hour’s drive back to Mangalore.

Kms covered: 82

Total distance so far: 782

Day 6 - 20th Jan, drive from Mangalore to Goa

Left Mangalore after a late breakfast and drove to Goa via NH-17. Stopped for quick breaks at Kaup beach (to see the lighthouse), Marvanthe (to enjoy the stretch of road with the sea on one side and the river on the other) and to see a view from the bridge at Bhatkal (a lovely panorama of the surroundings). Drove past Karwar but it was post-sunset, so didn’t stop. Reached Varca, our destination in Goa, at 8:30 pm.

Kms covered: 358

Total distance so far: 1140

Day 7 - 21st Jan, Goa

Bummed at Varca beach the whole day, from breakfast to sunset. The beach is much quieter than most popular beaches, and has a few good shacks and a good stretch of sea. Didn’t move from the beach, except for a quick drive to the nearest ATM.

Kms covered: 6

Total distance so far: 1146

Day 8 - 22nd Jan, Goa

After breakfast, left to explore beaches in South Goa. It is a beautiful drive through ghats. Reached Palolem at 11:30 am - pretty beach with islands, but, crowded (has shops lining the approach road, like Baga / Calangute). Left after an hour to go to Patnem; reached in time for lunch, and settled in a shack. Patnem is also pretty, with palms along the coast. But, non-crowded, and mostly filled with foreigners. At the beach till 6 pm. Reached Varca after a 1-hour drive.

Kms covered: 81

Total distance so far: 1227

Day 9 - 23rd Jan, Goa

Had breakfast and left for Panaji. Drove till Madgaon before we felt sleepy and lethargic. Returned to Varca, napped, went to Varca beach and settled down in the shack till sunset. Saw a lot of Starfish in the sand today.

Kms covered: 22 kms

Total distance so far: 1251

Day 10 - 24th Jan, Goa

Feeling fine today so decided to go to Panaji. Drove via Madgaon, trying to find the recommended ‘Jilla bakery’ at Loutolim. It is 8 kms from Madgaon circle, on the Ponda road, run by a family from their home. Bought a lot of biscuits and cakes – polished off the divine custard éclairs, sitting in the car outside their home, and ran back to buy more. Already 1:30, but decided to reach Panaji (35 kms away) and have lunch. Had lunch at Tulip restaurant in Marigold hotel, the only one we could find easily. The food was fine.

Left at 3:30 and went to ‘Our lady of Immaculate Conception’, a beautiful white church. Then, drove to old Goa to see Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral and Francis D'assissi. Gave a lift to a man who said he would show us the road to old Goa, but he turned out to be heavily drunk, so had to put him in a bus, halfway down the route. Drove via old houses in Ribander, known for its traditional architecture, but did not see any oyster-shell windows I was looking for; since we were late, couldn’t spend time looking at the houses. Reached old Goa only at 4:15 pm, hired a guide, and saw the churches. They shut at 5:30 pm and we just about made it to the last one! Reached Varca and packed to leave tomorrow.

Kms covered: 118 kms

Total distance so far: 1369

Day 11 - 25th Jan, Gokarna

After breakfast, checked out and left for Gokarna. Reached Gokarna in 3 hours. Had lunch at ‘Purohit’, at the town entrance, and it was bad! Reached the guesthouse and took an afternoon nap. Left for Om beach at 4 pm. There isn’t a good view of the 'Om', like you see in many photographs, unless you fly over the beach. Om beach is crowded! Took a motorboat ride to see Half-moon and Paradise beaches. Show shoals of silver fish jumping, and, the fins of 3 to 4 dolphins. Back in Gokarna town just before sunset, walked around...it is great for people photography! Saw the Maha Ganapati temple with a very different statue - a standing Ganesha in black stone. Went to the Shiva temple (Mahabaleshwar temple), but, could not go in due to the maddening rush as the main aarti was in progress. Foreigners are not allowed inside either temple. Had dinner at ‘Pai hotel’, a small eatery serving good local food.

Kms covered: 135 kms

Total distance so far: 1514

Day 12 - 26th Jan, Gokarna

Left for the temples at 7:45 am; had breakfast on the way. Restaurants open at 4 am or 6 am here! Republic day function for school kids going on, so had huge jams. Long queue again at Mahabaleshwar temple (might take 3 hrs, they said)! Conned by priests into taking Rs.1101 silver abhishekha so that we could go in, when we just needed to take the basic Rs.250 one. Very upset about this. The Shiva linga has to be felt from a hole in the ground. Finished the elaborate puja and visited the Parvati temple behind. Decided to go dolphin-watching again. Marginally better luck than yesterday; got dropped at Kudle beach afterwards. Lunch at ‘Shangrila’ shack - pizza, falafel and pancakes. They have rooms too. Liked Kudle beach much better than Om - sheltered, quieter, less littered, has shacks. Need to lie on the sand in the open, though, unlike Goa. 

The owner of our guesthouse freaked me out about the diving in Murudeshwar...there have been a lot of deaths this week in the seas at Goa, Gokarna and Murudeshwar! Don't want to dive now! Left for Murudeshwar at 4:30 pm and reached under 2 hours. Massive traffic jam on the 2 kms long road leading to Murudeshwar from the highway, due to the long weekend...dangerously narrow streets with 2-way cars, people and stalls! Reached our hotel after an agonizing 45 min for 2 kms! Went to Dreamz Diving to meet the team and the participants in today’s dive...feeling a bit reassured now.

Kms covered: 81 kms

Total distance so far: 1595

Day 13 - 27th Jan, Murudeshwar

Reported for diving at 8:45 am, but, a group of certified divers left first so we waited until 10:45 to board the boat. Thirteen of us, all first timers, receive a briefing on the boat. Reach Netrani Island at 12:30 pm. We only dock at Netrani, not alight from the boat. After some snorkeling for practice, we take turns diving, with our instructor. Being pushed backwards from the boat is scary. My heart pounds as I fall in, sink, and then float up....drowning and dying must feel terrible! I dive twice, but cannot descend beyond 5 metres. Being water-phobic, I keep swallowing water as I panic. Others dive 12-15 metres. Despite that, I see blue and yellow striped fish, black fish, a navy blue fish, a polka dotted and striped B&W fish, an orange fish etc. Others describe their dive as ‘life-changing’. I’m told to return after reducing my water-phobia. Am nauseous on the boat ride back...haven't eaten anything since breakfast. We eat room service lunch at 5:30 pm and are knocked out cold due to exhaustion.

Kms covered: 0 kms

Total distance so far: 1595

Day 14 - 28th Jan, Murudeshwar & Hulgol

Awoke later than planned, as we were tired. After breakfast, went to the Bhoo-kailasa museum to see the Atmalinga story narrated using kitsch statues with lifelike expressions. Saw Murudeshwar’s famous Shiva statue from the outside. Our car had a punctured tyre, so left in a hurry without going to the beach or inside the temple. Repaired the tyre and left by 11 am. Reached Edagunji temple (30 min away), to see the unique, standing ‘bal-ganesha’ statue with both tusks intact. The one in Gokarna is an ‘ekadanta’. Left for Hulgol 2 hours behind schedule! There is a steep ghat road till Jog falls, before deviating towards Sirsi. Didn't stop to see Jog falls as the water was apparently just a trickle.

Reached Hulgol after 3pm, for a late lunch. Left with Girish, our guide, for a trek at 5 pm. He tells us that the Brahmins in Sirsi are originally from Assam, invited by the ruling dynasty 800 years ago to come and settle here. Many youngsters from this generation, however, prefer living in cities; Girish foresees that in 10 years, the way of life in the village will end. Walking through the region’s famed spice plantations, we reached a sunset point, to enjoy a beautiful view, layering of trees and flocks of birds returning home. After sunset, saw the village the blacksmith work at his home-office. He’s been working from 5 am to 8 pm for 30 years now, using cold water, fire, hammer and a metal file to make implements and instruments. Also went to a home producing sugarcane and jaggery and saw the process of making jaggery. At least 50 people drop by at the house each day, to drink sugarcane juice. They refused to take any payment for the numerous glasses we’d gulped down, saying we’re guests; a moving gesture.

Kms covered: 165 kms

Total distance so far: 1760

Day 15 - 29th Jan, Hulgol

Had a sumptuous breakfast of local specialities, cooked by women from the village. A 13kms long trek lay ahead. First, walked till a lake, spotting many birds in the forest along the way. Went to a viewing tower by the lake, and saw a huge flock of ducks flying around in circles. Next, trekked to a 17th century Vishnu temple with carvings similar to Belur-Halebidu. Ate our packed lunch and napped a while, in the shaded temple courtyard. On the way back, sprained my knee while looking at the sky and walking, but had no choice except to continue on foot. Stopped at some Jain monks’ tombs; Jains have been in Sirsi since many centuries. Lastly, spent a lot of time at Sahasralinga, where Nandi statues and Shiva-lingas float in the river Shalmali. Wading through the river was a great way to spend time till sunset. After returning to the guesthouse, I rested my knee while hubby went with Girish to the village ‘games club’, to play Carrom.

Kms covered: 2 kms

Total distance so far: 1762

Day 16 - 30th Jan, Bhadra

We were ready to leave after breakfast, when the sight of about 20 Malabar pied hornbills on a tree distracted us. We also went to the village Ganesha temple next door and saw the statue of Huliyappa, the guardian tiger god. We finally left for Bhadra an hour behind schedule, via Sirsi & Shimoga. We reached Bhadra after a 4-hour drive and ran to have lunch as it was almost 3 pm. Our room on the island has a beautiful view! We left for the jeep safari at 4 pm - saw a few mammals and many birds. Also, hornbills sitting on the road! Today has been unbelievable hornbill luck!! Returning at 6:30 pm, we had tea and snacks. A group of cricket coaches have come here for some seminar...a bit annoying because their presentation occupies the whole dining hall, pushing us to a dingy corner during dinner, besides being extremely noisy.

Kms covered: 189 kms

Total distance so far: 1951

Day 17 - 31st Jan, Bhadra

The boat safari began only at 7 am, due to mist. Saw Ospreys at very close quarters! Back by 9 am, we breakfasted and napped. The afternoon boat safari was only at 4:30 pm, due to heat. We again had 4 sightings of Ospreys....We'd clicked a lifetime's supply of Osprey photos by now. Back in the evening, we debated about Halebidu the next day; seeing it on the way the Bangalore seemed tight. Should we stay the night at Hassan? But, rooms were expensive so we gave up. The cricket seminar got over in the evening, but most coaches were still around. They apologized for disturbing us yesterday.

Kms covered: NIL

Total distance so far: 1951

Day 18 - 1st Feb, Bhadra & Halebidu

Left for the jeep safari at 6:30 am and returned only at 9 am. Activity was low due to the cold weather and darkness; had a good Barking deer sighting, though. Managed to check out only by 11 am and reached Halebidu in 2 hours. Had lunch at the KSTDC hotel opposite the temple, and the food was bad! Halebidu’s temple looked small in comparison to Belur and it seemed like we’d be done in an hour. And then, we saw the ornate carvings; more so than Belur! Belur temple’s plan has 32 star-like pointed surfaces, but Halebidu has 64, so, more surface area! We were spellbound at the details and the Nandi statues too. We spent time at the temple till 4pm and rushed after that. We drove to the nearby Jain basadi to see the beautifully polished pillars. There was a road excavation on the way to the ruined Kedareshwara temple so we decided to skip it. We left for Bangalore at 4:30 pm, stopped for another round of chai and reached Bangalore by 9 pm.

Kms covered: 347 kms

Total distance so far: 2298

Road-trip summary: 17N/18D, 7 bases for accommodation, 2300 Kms

See this link for some photographs from the road-trip:

http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2013/02/january-on-wheels.html

Stories from various parts of this road-trip can be read here:

Bhadra: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2013/10/bhadra-still-water-still-mind.html
Gokarna: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2014/05/juggling-identities.html

Hotel details for this trip are here:

coming soon

Iceland: Information, Tips & Itinerary

                      For stories from my Iceland trip, read Post 1 and Post 2

Travelled in: October 2010

Overall Itinerary (as planned):

1. 13^th Oct - Arrive at Reykjavik at 15:10. Relax. Overnight at Reykjavik.

2. 14^th October – At Reykjavik. Whale watching.

3. 15^th October – Photography tour to Snaefellsnes.

4. 16^th Oct – Leave Reykjavik in the morning. On the road for 11N/12D. Back to Reykjavik on 27^th Oct, evening.

5. 28^th Oct – At Reykjavik. Also Northern lights trip.

6. 29^th Oct - Landmannalaugar & Hekla by superjeep.  (Went to West Iceland, instead)

7. 30^th Oct - At Reykjavik. Northern lights trip.

8. 31^st Oct – Early morning departure from hotel. Flight back home.

Drive itinerary (as planned):

Day 1: Reykjavik – Hafnarfjordur – Gardskagi (light-houses) – Grindavik - Kleifarvatn – Graenvatn & Krysuvik – Selfoss. Overnight at Selfoss.

Day 2: Selfoss – Gullfoss & Geysir – Seljalandsfoss – Skogar – Skogafoss – Myrdalsjokull – Dryholaey – Reynisfjara – Vik. Overnight at Vik.

Day 3: Vik – Klauster – Lakagigar & Fagrifoss – via Skeidararsandur – Skaftafell - Svartifoss – Hof. Overnight at farm near Jokulsarlon.

Day 4: Explore Skaftafell, Jokulsarlon & Vatnajokull. Overnight at farm near Jokulsarlon.

Day 5: Skalafellsjokull – Hofn - Djupivogur – Berunes – Breidalsvik. Overnight at Breidalsvik.

 

Day 6: Breidalsvik -  Stodvarfjordur (stone collection) - Faskrudsfjordur - Reydarfjordur – Eskifjordur - Seydisfjordur. Overnight at Seydisfjordur.  

 

Day 7: Relax at Seydisfjordur. Hikes & walks. Overnight at Seydisfjordur. 

   

Day 8: Seydisfjordur – Lagarflot – Hallormsstadaskogur – Reykjahlid – Dimmuborgir. Overnight at Dimmuborgir.

Day 9: Explore Myvatn / Krafla & Dettifoss. Overnight at Dimmuborgir. 

Day 10: Dimmuborgir – Godafoss – Akureyri – Laufas - Siglufjordur. Overnight at Siglufjordur.

Day 11: Siglufjordur. Overnight at Siglufjordur.

Day 12: Siglufjordur to Reykjavik. Drive via Hofsos (Grof church & museum ) and Glaumbaer.

Our planned itinerary was disrupted due to the weather (the blue line in the map below), as mentioned earlier. So, we drove back to Reykjavik on 24^th Oct itself & spent the rest of the days there, exploring Reykjavik & going on day trips to Reykjanes & West Iceland.

Planning a trip to Iceland:

While planning our itinerary, it was initially confusing. Iceland looked pint sized, drivable in a few days! Most people seemed to visit for 3 to 4 days. The more I read about Iceland, I realized that even 3 weeks might be too short! Planning a trip to Iceland, of all my trips so far, has required the most amount of precision planning. Especially if you are travelling in winter & have to deal with a lot of challenges: shorter day-light hours, reduced timings for museums & stores, hotels, restaurants & museums that might be shut, towns that are more deserted than in summer, delays due to the weather, change of itinerary due to the weather. Driving in Iceland was a different ball-game altogether…..you see very few people on the road, so you can’t ask for directions frequently. Rest-stops are few & far apart. You can’t pull over for your meals whenever you like…it has to be planned or the option is to carry food with you. None of this is to put you off Iceland; it’s just to tell you that you need to plan things out in Iceland, unless you’re okay with having a clumsy trip due to lack of planning. Also, driving distances may look really small on paper, but, remember that the Ring road (Route 1) has speed limits. Most of the time, it was 90 kmph. Within towns, it was almost always 30-50 kmph. Also, you tend to spend a lot of time enjoying the scenic drive & stopping to click photographs. Definitely try to pack in very less in a day, unless you want to be just zipping past everything.

Informative websites are available for most parts of Iceland, which are a great to refer to while planning your trip. The 2 websites for weather forecasts & road condition status updates are indispensible. I’ve listed out all the websites that I referred to & found useful, at the end of this report. Once you reach Iceland, there’s a huge selection of maps & informative brochures to choose from, available for free, beginning right at the airport exit. They’re also stocked at all guest-houses & hotels. Detailed driving maps are available at bookstores. I picked up the Ferdakort (1:500,000 scale) & it was pretty accurate & useful.

Packing Essentials:

These are some items that I carried & found really useful, on our Iceland trip:

Ready to eat food (most B&Bs, Guesthouses & farm-stays allow guests to use their kitchen. If you want to stay in during bad weather or if you are unwell or you want to cut costs - this is handy), Biscuits, chocolates & snack bars (I carried a few of these as well, to tide through hunger pangs just when there’s not a store in sight! You could also buy them in Iceland & they’re not very expensive. We also stocked up on Skyr & fruits, which we bought locally), Re-usable plate & spoon/fork (useful if you are trying to eat a pre-packaged sandwich that you got earlier & the wrapper gives way), Ziploc bags (to keep opened packs of biscuits fresh & also to waterproof important items in your backpack, when venturing out in the rain), Garbage bags (very handy to dispose trash in while on the road, until you find a waste bin), A small water bottle (hang on to the one that you might have purchased at the airport while flying in. It’s very handy to have a bottle that you can fill & carry each morning, as you leave your hotel).

Umbrella (not very useful due to the wind, but, handy as a cover over the photographer, on rainy days), Alarm clock (could either be your mobile phone or an alarm – useful if you’re not planning to stay at hotels where you can ask for a wake-up call), Torch / flashlight, with spare batteries (for exploring caves or venturing out at night), CDs of your favourite music (For the drive. Your only other option is the radio), Power adapter (for all your gadgets), a Net-book (this was great as it was much smaller & lighter than my regular laptop. I used it wherever I had wi-fi access, to keep in touch with family & keeping an eye on road & weather conditions in Iceland. It was also great for daily back-ups & analysis of our photographs).

Spare shoes (Incase your shoe is soaked in the rain / slush. If you don’t want to carry a spare, dry your wet shoes overnight by placing them in front of the room heater, at a safe distance), A basic first aid kit (also all your prescribed medication as well as ones for basics like cold & fever), Synthetic clothes rather than cotton (they dry very quickly, in the rare case that you are caught in the rain without your waterproof jacket), lots of spare socks, and finally, Swimwear (even in winter, to use at hot tubs & pools).

Guide-book:

Lonely Planet’s guide to Iceland, 2010 edition.  We also picked up useful brochures (for local zones) along our way & the ‘Around Iceland’ guide at the airport, when we arrived. Reading the paper while at Reykjavik is another great way of getting information on shows, exhibitions & local events.

Maps:

Our primary map was Ferdakort, 1:5,00,000 scale. We also used maps available in our guide-book & brochures. We also printed & carried the Iceland Road Administration map from Vegagerdin.is, which was useful.

Navigation:

We used the Garmin GPS system that we got from our car rental agency. For route planning, we relied more on our Ferdakort map (especially after our experience on day 1), though our GPS was always switched on as a back-up. It was very useful, though, to get directions to restaurants, fuel stations or supermarkets within every town / city. We also used Garmin to roughly estimate driving times between places (rough estimates, not because Garmin is inaccurate, but, because it does not take into consideration time spent in stopping & admiring the scenery, which for us, sometimes lead to delays of even an hour or more).

Websites:

Online guides & Blogs:

www.frommers.com/destinations/iceland/

www.parrikar.com/blog/?s=iceland&searchsubmit-top=Search

reluctantadventurer.blogspot.com/2008/09.html

www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/dunder/2/tpod

www.bigbigplanet.com/iceland/index

homepage.mac.com/wasleys/faroe_iceland_mw/iceland/index

www.xs4all.nl/~cile/travel/iceland/iceland_info.htm

gummiey.posterous.com/tag/iceland

www.hostel.is/Inspireme/SampleItineraries/ (sample itineraries around Iceland)

www.heimur.is/world/ (for the Around Iceland guidebook)

Weather, Roads, Buses:

http://en.vedur.is/ (Weather)

www.vegagerdin.is/english/ (Iceland Road administration)

www.re.is/Flybus/Schedule/ (Flybus schedules)

www.gedds.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/ (Northern lights forecast)

Driving in Iceland:

www.safetravel.is/safetravel/en/

www.icelandguest.com/about-iceland/how-to-drive-in-iceland/

www.us.is/id/2693

Accommodation:

www.accommodation.is/

www.farmholidays.is/

General planning:

nat.is/main.html

www.inspiredbyiceland.com

www.travelnet.is/

www.visitreykjavik.is/desktopdefault.aspx/tabid-116

www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Iceland/Packing_Lists-Iceland-TG-C-1.html (packing lists)

www.gsmbensin.is/gsmbensin_web.php?language=en (for fuel prices)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxzhWkMD3co&NR=1 (Icelandic pronounciation & phrases - videos)

www.south.is/

http://en.east.is/

www.westiceland.is/

www.northiceland.is/

www.northwest.is/

www.visitnortheasticeland.is/

Guides & tours:

www.icelandguide.is/ (for guides)

www.superjeep.is

www.glacierjeeps.is

www.privatetravel.is

Weather & Clothing:

We were unable to purchase our wind & water-proof jackets from home or through the online North Face store. We bought them in Reykjavik, from a local brand called 'Ice-wear', which was recommended to us by Icelanders. It was slightly in-expensive than even North Face & worked very well for us in all the harsh conditions that we faced. We also got a good outer jacket from Ellingsen, by the harbor.  We constantly faced temperatures of -3 deg. C to + 5 deg. C. If you take the wind chill factor into account, I suspect it was more like braving weather below 0 all the time, going up to lows of -15 deg.C. We had strong winds on a lot of days (10 mps) going up to 21 mps on one very bad day. There were days when we encountered snow, rain & sunshine, all within a few hours of each other. Use sunblock...the weather in winter might be deceptive, but, I did tan. Waterproof trousers were very useful on a lot of days, especially when we were out sight-seeing in the rain. Umbrellas are pretty useless….we did use them on the day we got there, before we purchased our water-proofs & we did provide a few laughs to Reykjavikeurs, what with our umbrella turning inside out & threatening to fly away! It was useful, though, to shield our camera from the rain, on days when there was no wind (there weren’t too many days like that!)

This information may not be useful for those from/familiar with cold climates. It’s for those from warmer countries: We dressed in layers – thermal inners, with regular clothes, a mid-layer of fleece & an outer layer that was wind & waterproof. We used waterproof gloves when necessary & fleece-lined gloves at other times. A fleece lined cap is also better - the wind just pierces through regular knit caps.

Car Rental:

We had a great experience with Reykjavik Rent-a-car. The car was in very good condition and the agency was friendly & hassle-free to deal with. We had mailed them before arriving, to ask if they can get us a couple of small cushions to prop our back while driving & they remembered & got us a couple of them. We extended the car rent by a day & that too was a simple process.  It was also very nice of them to let us retain our Icelandic mobile number for a couple of days after we returned the car, at no extra cost!

Car:

Hyundai Tucson, 4x4, Petrol variant. With Garmin (GPS) and a mobile phone (with an Icelandic sim card from Vodafone & 1000 ISK talk-time). After exhausting the 1000 ISK, we got Vodafone re-charge cards from fuel stations as & when required.

Hotels:

Reykjavik – Snorri’s Guesthouse

Selfoss – Gesthus

Vik – Hotel Hofdabrekka

Jokulsarlon – Gerdi (Farmhouse)

Breidalsvik – Hotel Blafell

Museums visited / Shows seen:

Duushus (a collection of hand-made models of ships & boats), Keflavik

Skogar Folk Museum, Skogar

National Museum, Reykjavik

Reykjavik Museum of Photography, Reykjavik

Arbaejarsafn, Reykjavik

Saga Museum, Perlan, Reykjavik

Settlement Exhibition (Reykjavik 871 +/-2), Reykjavik

Let’s talk local - Reykjavik, Reykjavik

There are countless museums, exhibitions & sculptures that you can visit and shows that you can watch. Due to lack of time, we could see only a few. Also, during winter, many of the smaller ones are shut so find out before you turn up.

Guides:

Glacier walk – Icelandic Mountain Guides

Laki tour – Arcanum (snow.is), with Ashpure as our guide.

Thingvellir, Langjokull & West Iceland– Privatetravel.is, with Oli as our guide.

Photography tour to Snaefellsnes & Northern Lights Tour – Icelandaurora.com

Food:

I’m vegetarian & my husband eats very limited meat (chicken & fish). Most restaurants in Reykjavik had at least a couple of meat-free dishes on their menu. Outside of Reykjavik, we did have a harder time…we had to sustain only on sandwiches, fries, pita or soup. Pasta & pizza were available at cafés in some larger towns. A lot of the restaurants at very small towns were shut due to winter & we managed by eating at fuel stations. We did get some different food at a few farms that we stayed in, but, it was really expensive. We stocked up on fruits & Skyr, which soon became a favourite. My reluctant husband did try Icelandic lamb & he loved it!

Typically, for vegetarian meals, we spent 1200 to 2000 ISK per person. The more expensive restaurants at Reykjavik cost 2500-3000 ISK per person.  At farmhouses, meals cost 3500-4500 per person. Breakfast was provided at all our hotels, except at Selfoss (the kitchen was closed as it was winter).

Restaurants:

Reykjavik: Graenn Kostur (Veg-repeat visits), A Naestu Grosum (Veg), Kitchen Eldhus (Nepali), Eldsmidjan Pizza (repeat visits), Rossopomodoro (Italian), Bakari Sandholt, Caruso (Italian-repeat visits), Geysir Bistro & Bar, Krua Thai (Thai), Austur India Felagid (Indian), Basil & lime (Italian), Food court at Kringlan Mall.
Keflavik: Rain
Grindavik: Mamma Mia

Selfoss: Subway, Gudnabakari (for breakfast).

Gulfoss: Café near the visitors’ center.

Hvolsvollur: Galleri Pizza

Vik: At the N1 fuel station. Also at our hotel, Hofdabrekka.

Skaftafell, Jokulsarlon: At our farmstay, Gerdi. Also at the fuel station at Freysnes.

Hofn: Kaffi Hornid

Djupivogur: Vid Voginn

Breidalsvik: Hotel Blafell

Read this to know more about my experience in Iceland.

Iceland: Our experience

                               
                                For stories from my Iceland trip, read Post 1 and Post 2


Travelled in: October 2010

We travelled to Iceland for 2-1/2 weeks. Pictures of Iceland caught my eye a couple of years ago. After resolutely saving up for the trip (It was way too expensive for us, even though we saved some cost by travelling off-season) & debating on the right season to go, we zeroed in on late autumn / early winter. We weren’t sure if we could handle the cold, but, the temptation of the Aurora Borealis was too much to resist. 

About Iceland:

Iceland…. a far-away land, 4 flights away from home. And yet, there I was one rainy winter afternoon, at Reykjavik’s Keflavik Airport, amazed by how different it was from what I’m used to! Iceland’s population density according to my guide-book: 3 people per sq.km……In India; we probably have 3 people every square meter! It’s area is 1,03,000 sq.km (That’s half the size of Karnataka, about the same size as Bihar). The country’s population is 3.2 Lac people, of which almost 40% live in the capital, Reykjavik. As for the other towns – a lot of them have populations ranging from 35 to 300 people. Some larger towns have a few thousand people living there.  Icelanders are of Norse / Viking origin. People are addressed by their first names…. In fact, even the telephone directory is said to be sorted on a first name basis.They have a very interesting naming convention: If Gunnar has a son called Jon & a daughter called Kristin, they would be called Jon Gunnarsson & Kristin Gunnarsdottir (‘sson’ & ‘dottir’ being the suffix-es). As a result, everybody in a family has different last names, which remain un-changed even after marriage.

The main industry is Fishing & farming (no plants, only sheep & poultry). Tourism too is on an upswing. Iceland, especially Reykjavik, has a surprising number of Indian Restaurants that are very popular. This, despite the fact that there is no sizeable Indian population, except, perhaps, the owners/chefs at the restaurant.  And, we tried the food & it was surprisingly good! Their currency is the Icelandic Krona (ISK). The conversion: 1 ISK = 2.5 INR. But, don’t be fooled into thinking that ours is a stronger currency… a coffee costs about 300 ISK, which is 120 Rs. The cheapest meal per person easily costs 1800 ISK, which is approx. 700 Rs.

As the landmass is still relatively volatile, there is a lot of geo-thermal activity. Trees & plants do not grow in Iceland. Fruits & vegetables are imported. So, a lot of the vegetarian food is more expensive than meat! Iceland does have some areas designated as forests, where they try to grow trees, but, it has not always been successful. As the joke goes, “What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest? ……. You just stand up!”

The air is so cool & crisp. And the water - we drank off taps during our entire trip & didn’t fall sick….That was such a novelty for us! We really enjoyed the vast, open spaces in Reykjavik and spent evenings by the half-frozen pond, Tjornin, watching & feeding the ducks. We walked along the harbour road, as people ran or cycled by… I’ve not seen as many people run every day, as I saw at Reykjavik! Iceland also consumes the highest per capita of books in the world. Everybody is into some form of art – music, painting, sculptures, fashion designers, jewellery designers….

I am no socio-political expert, but, I really admire Icelanders for a lot of things: Iceland has no army & no internal conflict. Their President lives in a ‘regular’ house like anybody else, without any security. It is said that you can actually ring the doorbell & there’s a very good chance that the door will be answered by the President or his wife. I respect Icelanders for the fact that they are very egalitarian and also don’t judge people based on their life-style choices… Iceland elected the world’s first openly gay prime minister. To them, no job is beneath anybody. From owners to employees, they all cook, serve, clean the rooms and tend to their sheep…something that you will rarely find elsewhere.  People trust each other (I saw carrots & tomatoes being sold in carts, where you just drop the money in a box after you pick what you want…. It wouldn’t have lasted long in most countries!). When we had to return our rental car, we were told to leave our car, un-locked, on the road, with the key & our rented mobile phone inside the open car. The agency said that they would come whenever possible & take it away. We refused to do it as the very thought alarmed us. After a lot of coaxing & re-assurance by the agents that “people in Iceland do not steal”, we did it & were surprised when the car wasn’t stolen! We met a lot of people who faced difficult times during Iceland’s economic crisis, but, it was inspiring to see how resilient they were. Some people had taken up multiple jobs; others saw the crisis as an opportunity to do something they were passionate about, like music, designing, guiding.

We had so many instances of people being nice to us – At the National Museum at Reykjavik, we lingered over each exhibit for so long that we had barely covered half the museum when it closed. The museum staff noticed that & allowed us to come back the next day using the same ticket, as they said that they were happy to see our interest in the museum. On a particularly cold day, as we had lunch in South Iceland, we were served a bowl of hot soup, on the house! At Skogar Museum, they gave us tickets at half price as they felt that we didn’t have enough time to spend at the museum. When our debit card was charged multiple times at a fuel station, the lady at the store followed up the matter on our behalf with the petrol company. She updated us every few days, as we travelled around Iceland. When we called to tell her that the issue was sorted, she seemed genuinely happy for us.

Our Trip:

We landed in Reykjavik on the first day of the Iceland Airwaves music festival. Reykjavik was teeming with visitors & had a very vibrant feel, with off-venue performances at cafes, clubs & book-stores. We caught a few performances & it was great, with the crowd cheering the performers. We had booked a whale watching trip, but, it was cancelled due to stormy seas. We spent our time just relaxing, orienting ourselves to Reykjavik & acclimatising to Iceland’s weather (We’d just landed from 30 deg.C back home into 2-3 deg). We also went on a day-trip to the Snaefellsnes peninsula, for photography. Two days later, after having shopped for our water/wind-proofs & road maps, we set off on our drive around Iceland.

We drove anti-clockwise around the country, beginning at Reykjavik. Our first few days were rainy. For most of our driving trip, we were one of the very few cars on the road. On Day 1, we had an incident while driving, with very poor visibility & a storm. That particular day, having spent more time than planned at the Gardskagi light-houses, we were behind schedule to reach our destination for the night - Selfoss. At 4pm, we began driving to Selfoss from Grindavik. The road passes through desolate lava fields & hugs the coast, which had pounding waves due to the storm. The fog, the reducing daylight & the poor visibility too added to the eerie effect. After one particularly bad gravel stretch (we had passed a camp of workers repairing the road a few kilometers earlier), our GPS began issuing warnings saying we were off track & subsequently, that we were headed straight for the water! But, my roadmap insisted that there was a road ahead. To make matters worse, we reached a point where the road was just the width of our car, with water on either side. It literally scared the pants off us & we stopped there, wondering if we were floating or still on land. After 10 anxious minutes, we saw the headlights of another car coming from the opposite direction, which hinted that there was a road ahead, leading to somewhere. We tried to stop the vehicle to ask, but it didn’t. Nevertheless, reassured, we switched off our still screaming GPS & drove till we finally reached a town, Thorlakshofn. From there, Selfoss was just 20 minutes away. After this eventful day, we had brilliant, rain-free days (but cold, wind & even some snow!) for the rest of our trip.

From Selfoss, we drove to the waterfall Gulfoss & the hot water springs at Geysir. We were lucky to not have rain that morning. On the way, we stopped at the crater, Kerid. You can take a path down to the bottom of the crater. At Geysir, it was fun watching Strokkur erupt every 10-15 minutes. We felt like we were kids once more, enjoying each eruption & eagerly awaiting the next. We had to force ourselves to leave. Gulfoss was very beautiful! I had read about how some people find it under-whelming, especially after having seen other falls in Iceland.  Having now seen a lot of waterfalls there, I feel that each is so different that they’re all beautiful in their own right. We walked along the path that led to the place where the water begins tumbling downwards. After lunch at Gulfoss, we resumed our drive. We soon spotted Myrdalsjokull at a distance….our first glimpse of a glacier. We stopped at the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, on the way to Skogar. By then, it had begun raining & we could see the waterfall sway (for lack of a better word to describe it) in the breeze. It sprayed us & soon, we were soaking wet! We got back to our car to change out of our soaked jeans into waterproof pants, before going back again. There were a few people attempting to walk on the ledge behind the waterfall. But, as the ledge was very slippery & there were strong winds, we didn’t attempt it. We drove to yet another waterfall, Skogafoss, shortly before sunset. After spending some time there, we drove straight to our halt for the night, Vik.

We left Vik after breakfast, with our guide, to go to the volcanic craters at Laki. We trailed his superjeep till we had to leave the ring road & begin our drive to Laki. We parked our car at the ‘parking lot’ at the entrance to mountain road F206, beyond which it is not possible to drive even in a 4x4. Bumping along in the superjeep, we left behind all signs of habitation. We stopped at Fagrifoss, also known as ‘beautiful falls’ and beautiful, it was! We drove through stark landscapes, fording rivers along the way, to get our first glimpse of the Lakagigar crater row. It seemed so serene now that it belied the havoc that it had wreaked a couple of centuries ago, when 35 craters erupted simultaneously! We continued driving to the volcano, Laki. We were joined by some farmers on their ATVs, rounding up sheep that had strayed here. There was so much lava around, that it was eerie. It was a very humbling experience indeed, to see evidence of nature’s forces. We drove away from the crater row, towards the black sand dunes. The sand had formed beautiful patterns and we were awed by the artistry of it all….Blue crater lakes against the black sand made for compelling images. Our ‘large’ superjeep was completely dwarfed by the vast landscape & it looked no more than a speck, when seen from the top of one of the black sand dunes. By late afternoon, after 8 hours at Laki, we were back in our car, on the road. We stopped at the nearby town of Kirkjubaerklaustur for lunch (at the fuel station) & then drove on, to get our first glimpse of the glacier Vatnajokull, Europe’s largest ice-cap. Vatnajokull stayed with us for the next few days of our trip. At some places, the glacial tongues almost reached the road & looked beautiful & blue in the moonlight. The sudden appearance of the glacial lagoon Jokulsarlon a few kilometers later led to much jaw dropping! We tore ourselves away to drive 15 more kms, to our farm, Gerdi, our home for the next 2 nights. We fell asleep to beautiful views of the full moon & the sound of the ocean beneath our window.

We spent the next day exploring Jokulsarlon, Vatnajokull & Skaftafell National park. After a relaxed morning at the farm, we drove to Jokulsarlon. We were the only ones there & the ticketing office hadn’t opened either. We walked around the shore, watching the surreally beautiful lagoon. We also climbed a small hill behind the ticket office & had great views across the lagoon. Soon, people joined us & we bought tickets for the boat ride. We sipped hot chocolate at the café, as we waited for the boat to be readied. At 10 am, we set out, driving at first & then floating on the water. Our guide explained what we saw, from the glacier, to the icebergs, to the various colours on the ice. We were also given bits of ice to taste. After more than an hour, we were back at the shore. We drove to the Skaftafell National Park, stopping for lunch on the way. We registered ourselves for the 2 pm glacial walk. We were extremely apprehensive as we had no prior experience walking on snow or Ice. As we were harnessed, we spoke to our guide, who allayed our fears. Soon, the 6 of us were on a bus to the glacier Svinafellsjokull. After strapping our crampons on & listening carefully to our guide’s instructions, we began our 2 hour walk. It was not too difficult & soon, our feet adjusted to the rhythm. It was a beautiful, sunny day. I had expected the glacier to be really cold…surprisingly, it felt warmer than on the road! I turned out to be the clumsiest in the group, slipping a couple of times. I was subsequently harnessed to the instructor on a slightly tricky portion of the walk & felt like a cow being led, eliciting much laughter from the others.  We lost track of time, as we enjoyed the walk & were very sad when it had to end. We were dropped back at the Skaftafell visitors’ center. As it was nearing sunset, we made a dash for the waterfall, Svartifoss. We left Svartifoss before it turned dark (again, we were the only ones there & it didn’t seem prudent to stay after dark). That night, the sky seemed really clear so, by 10 pm, we went out to the farmhouse porch, waiting to spot the Northern lights. It was freezing cold & we were lucky that we could go inside the house from time to time, to thaw ourselves! Finally, at midnight, we spotted some green bands, which soon turned into a full-fledged display. It was our first view of the Northern lights & we were awestruck. What a day it had been!

We awoke a little late that morning & lazed around, watching horses at the neighbouring farm. We left Gerdi after breakfast. Soon, we stopped at another farm, Brunnholl, for some home-made ice-cream, which was yummy. We bought a tub of ice-cream. We took a de-tour from the ring road, to go to the small town of Hofn. At the fuel station at Hofn, we washed our car, which had become a bit dusty by then. From Hofn, we had stunning views of Vatnajokull & all its glaciers.  After admiring it for some time, we got back to the ring road, to continue our drive East-wards. Our drive to the East-Fjords was spectacular. A little after Hofn, we crossed the barren land of Lonsoraefi. Soon, the landscape had changed dramatically from what we had seen over the past few days. The roads wound around the fjords, they had turned steep & it was difficult to keep your eyes on the road. The ocean was really close & so were the mountains. It was one of the most desolate stretches of Iceland that we had seen until then. Every now & then, a small town would appear in the fjord. There were signs warning us to look out for falling rocks, many of which were precariously perched.  We drove around, admiring the views, until we reached Breidalsvik, where we halted for the night. We were the only visitors in town & the only occupants of our hotel. That gave us an idea of what was in store for us as we went further north. As we watched the news at the hotel, there were reports of the north & the east being snowed-in, with strong winds to boot.  It struck us that we may not be able to continue our drive any further. As there was nothing we could do about it that night, we had a nice, warm dinner by the fire & decided to figure out our plans the next morning. 

The weather beyond Breidalsvik had turned bad. We called our hotels at our next 3 destinations - Seydisfjordur, Myvatn & Siglufjordur & they confirmed it. East & North Iceland had heavy snow-fall. The weather was bad even by Icelandic standards & we were advised not to travel any further up the East coast. We cancelled plans of driving north & re-traced our southern route back to Reykjavik. Luckily, we were able to go to Laki....the road was inccessible soon after. We drove till Stodvarfjordur in the East Fjords & turned back. I was very disappointed initially, but then, it was a calculated risk when we decided to come in October. The East Fjords are hauntingly beautiful & I'm glad we at least had a chance to spend a couple of days there.  It just means that we will have to go back to Iceland for another visit!

We took our time driving back, to catch some sights that we had missed during our West-East drive. We stopped again at Skaftafell & saw the turf roofed church at Hof.   Our next stop was for a day, at Vik, where we enjoyed the clear weather. We went to the black sand beach at Reynisfjara, saw the stone arches at Dyrholaey & spent more time at Skogafoss & the Skogar museum. We were very lucky to have the museum almost to ourselves that day. The founder of the museum guided us around exhibits, even playing a few musical instruments for us. He spoke to us & showed us around the church, playing hymns on the piano as we sat at the pew. It was a great experience.

From Vik, we drove straight to Reykjavik & used it as a base for day trips. We went to the ‘haunted’ lake Kleifarvatn one day, since we had missed it due to a storm, earlier.  It is said to house a giant worm, the size of a whale! I had initially thought of skipping the thermal bath & spa, the Blue Lagoon, as it seemed too crowded & 'touristy'. Am I glad that we did not! It's a fabulous experience & one we thoroughly enjoyed. To top it all, being winter, there were very few people, adding to the experience.

We cancelled our trip to Landmannalaugar, as it had turned more or less white due to snowfall. Since we couldn’t see the colours that it is so famous for, we took a superjeep trip instead, to West Iceland & Langjokull glacier. We went with a guide in a superjeep to the top of ‘Reykjavik’s mountain’, Mt. Esja at sunrise, for fabulous views over Reykjavik. Next, we drove to see the seat of the first parliament at Thingvellir. Thingvellir is also a National Park, where the earth is tearing apart (The European & North American plates). We then drove via the barren mountain pass Kaldidalur, to Langjokull glacier. We had thought of driving to other parts of Iceland, but dropped the idea after there were serious storm warnings for the entire country, for a couple of days. We ended up spending a week in Reyjkavik & its surroundings, but, I don't regret it. Reykjavik has tons of things to see & do and, frankly, I could have maybe even spent 10 days there. The city is so full of music, sculptures, art-work, museums.....

We got a little lucky with the Northern lights. We didn’t see very strong displays, but we did see many. We first saw northern lights at the farm Gerdi, near Jokulsarlon, on 19th Oct and again, at the end of our trip. The most fabulous Northen lights display we had was on 26th Oct, right over Reykjavik city and at 7.30 pm, at that! It caught us completely by surprise (we were on the Perlan viewing deck, shooting night shots of Reykjavik). It was, by far, the strongest northern lights we saw. And, it lasted for almost 40 minutes. I could imagine how strong the intensity might have been, had we been able to see them without the city lights dulling them!

I can understand the kind of effort that goes into clicking spectacular pictures that we've seen, of Iceland. We were blown away by so many landscapes & had to work really hard to try & capture even a bit of the magic into a picture. Even more challenging was to attempt doing this in Icelandic weather, which, on most days, was bitterly cold with a howling wind! Not to mention rain, storms & freak snow-showers. Before going to Iceland, I would have refused to step out in such weather with my camera, but, I spent this entire trip lugging around my equipment & resolutely attempting photography, come what may!

We had a fabulous trip & it was difficult to leave, especially when you are leaving a place full of stunning landscapes, peace & solitude and coming back to a hectic lifestyle & a city full of chaos & noise!

Read this for my Iceland itinerary, information and tips.