Sikkim: Information, Tips & Itinerary

                                  For stories from my Sikkim trip, read this blog

 

Travelled in: December 2009

Itinerary:

The overall pace of the trip was relaxed as I don’t like cramming too many things into the day.

Day 0 - Flight from Bangalore, via Delhi. Arrive at Bagdogra at 13:00 pm. Drive to Gangtok. Arrive by evening. Stay overnight at Gangtok.

Day 1 – Visit Tsomgo Lake with a guide. Stay overnight at Gangtok.

Day 2 – Leave early morning for Lachung, via Singhik.  Sight-seeing on the way. Stay overnight at Lachung.

Day 3 – Leave early morning for Yumthang valley & Zero point or Katao. Stay overnight at Lachung.

Day 4 – Leave Lachung for Lachen. Sight-seeing on the way.  Stay overnight at Lachen.

Day 5 – Visit Gurudongmar Lake & Chopta valley.  Stay overnight at Lachen.

Day 6 – Leave Lachen for Dzongu. Stay overnight at Dzongu.

Day 7 – Explore Dzongu. Stay overnight at Dzongu.

Day 8 – Explore Dzongu. Stay overnight at Dzongu.

Day 9 – Leave Dzongu for Gangtok. Stay overnight at Gangtok.

Day 10 – Enchey Chaam at Gangtok.  Stay overnight at Gangtok.

Day 11 – Visit Rumtek & Lingdum monasteries.  Stay overnight at Gangtok.

Day 12 – Leave Gangtok for Pelling. Stay overnight at Pelling.

Day 13 – Explore Pelling.  Overnight at Pelling.

Day 14 – Explore Pelling.  Overnight at Pelling.

Day 15 – Leave Pelling for Darjeeling.  Overnight at Darjeeling. 

Day 16 – Explore Darjeeling.  Overnight at Darjeeling. 

Day 17 - Leave Darjeeling for Bagdogra. Catch flight to Delhi at 15.30 pm.

From Day 11 onwards, we modified our itinerary at the spur of the moment. The one given above is our modified itinerary. Initially, we were scheduled to leave Gangtok on Day 11 after visiting the monasteries & drive to Ravangla. Day 12 was at Ravangla. Day 13 onwards was at Pelling, with a trek to Khecheopalri Lake and Days 16 & 17 were to be spent at Rinchenpong. 

But, we heard that all hotels at Ravangla were shut for winter (which was true; we saw it when we drove through Ravangla). Also, there were strikes at Darjeeling & we were advised to leave Sikkim soon, before the only highway out of Sikkim was blocked. Hence, we spent the last 2 days in Darjeeling itself, amidst the strike; so that we would at least have a chance of flying back to Bangalore as scheduled on Day 17.

When to go:

The monsoons begin in Sikkim by June 1st week / mid June. Sikkim during the monsoons will be very lush & green. But, by July, there are chances of the rains being heavy & spoiling your travel plans. Landslides may occur due to heavy rains. Also, you will not see any views of the mountains as it will always be cloudy. All in all, avoid the monsoons.

You can see pretty Rhododendrons, which bloom in spring & summer if you go in March/April/May.

If you want to see snow, go during December-March. West Sikkim is a little warmer, as it is at a lower altitude. In the rest of Sikkim, temperatures can hover around 0 degrees & dip below; be adequately prepared. Also, Gurudongmar Lake may not be accessible if there is snow & ice; so do not attempt the journey if the weather worsens & your driver decides to turn back. He knows best. The Nathu-La pass too may be closed during peak winter. Some areas of Sikkim (like Zero point & Katao) are known to have snow well until summer.

Carry an entire set of woolens: thermal inners, a light sweater, a heavier jacket, woolen socks, gloves, mufflers, ear muffs and a woolen cap. You will need all this even if you visit Tsomgo (Changu) Lake from Gangtok. Within Gangtok-Pelling-Darjeeling, you may not need thermal inners too much. It may also drizzle. Room heaters are available at most hotels, either included in your room tariff or charged extra; ask for it when you book your room.

But, there’s one thing to always look out for: the political situation in Darjeeling. Check this before you leave home. The reason for this is that, Sikkim is connected by 2 entry/exit points; only to West Bengal. One road (near Jorethang) leads straight to Darjeeling. The other road connecting Bagdogra airport, SIliguri & New Jalpaiguri railway station to Gangtok is very close to Darjeeling. Strikes in Darjeeling may affect your chances of going to Sikkim.

Travel agent (for permits & guides) & Driver:

North Sikkim (beyond Mangan / Singhik) can only be visited in the company of a guide, after having the necessary inner-line permits. These permits can be arranged by you. But, save yourself the hassle by getting it done by a travel agent, who can also arrange for a ‘North package’.

Only Indians are permitted to go to Nathu-La (near Gangtok), Zero point & Katao (near Lachung) and Gurudongmar Lake (near Lachen). Foreigners, though, can visit Tsomgo Lake (near Gangtok) & Yumthang valley (near Lachung) and Tsopta (Chopta) Valley (near Lachen); besides, of course, Lachen & Lachung.

Based on recommendations, I had initially contacted 2 highly recommended agents. Both of them did not respond well, were extremely slow in their response (they took 2 months! And that too only after I called them up every few days to follow up) & one of them even left me in the lurch at the last minute (10 days before my departure) after promising to organise my trip!

Panic stricken, I contacted the lesser-known Khangri Tours & Travels based in Gangtok and they made all necessary arrangements within a couple of days. I am glad I went with them & highly recommend them. I got the lowest quote too, from them. We used them for North Sikkim and when we were happy; we also hired vehicles from them for a few of our trips. And, at the end of our trip, when we were faced with the Siliguri / Darjeeling strikes, they really helped us out; even though they didn’t have to. Contact person - Mr. Chamba: 098320-89467, 098320-49994 Or Arjun: 3592-206050. Website: khangrii.com

Our driver for North Sikkim was Dorjee: 094745-30584. Dorjee is also the owner of the vehicle (Mahindra Maxx). The vehicle was very well maintained & hence, comfortable. He had also taken all additional precautions & spares before our North trip, to ensure we had no problems. He is an extremely cautious driver too, which was good for me; as I am very paranoid. Also, both Arjun & Dorjee are young, friendly, fun & helpful and we really enjoyed our trip because of their company.

Hotels:

Gangtok:

The Royal Demazong (for the first 2 days) – This hotel had been acquired by Club Mahindra just a week before we went. The rooms were spacious but the walls were paper thin; we could clearly hear the TV from neighbouring rooms. I would not highly recommend it as it is far away from the main city & needs a taxi ride costing 100 Rs, each time you want to go to MG Marg.

Mintokling Guest house (during the Chaam) - It is located on Bhanupath. It is located away from the main road, in a non-noisy area. Yet, it is easily walkable from MG Marg (The 10-15 min walk was okay for us. May not be suitable for the elderly).  I chose it because I like to stay away from the road noise at night. The food is good. The rooms are clean. We stayed at the suite & that too was relatively in-expensive. I would highly recommend this guesthouse.

Lachung:

Apple Valley Inn - I loved this place. It's small & cozy; with extremely friendly staff & awesome food. But, if you have a lot of luggage, you may find some of the rooms a bit too small…ask for the larger rooms. I stayed in the small but comfortable log room. The room didn’t have a heater & we had to hire one from them as it was too cold.

Lachen:

Siniolchu Lodge - The room & bathroom were spacious. We had some trouble with the geyser, which was a bit of a problem as it was winter. They also had a very barely functional, broken heater; that gave us no warmth. The food is decent. We could have stayed at a better hotel at Lachen, but, when we went in Dec; most of the hotels were shut. Luckily, I can manage with very basic amenities & so, was fine. But, if you are not comfortable with that, I would suggest trying some other hotel in Lachen; there definitely are a few more options.

Dzongu:

Homestay with Mr. Dupden Lepcha: 098002-54465. The family is very friendly, the rooms are clean & basic and the food is great. But, the rooms don’t have attached bathrooms.

There are no shops in Dzongu, except small ones selling basic provisions & home necessities. I'm not sure if medicines are available either. You should definitely carry all emergency medication with you. The nearest hospital seems to be at Mangan, an hours' drive away.

Pelling:

Elgin Mt. Pandim - I really loved this hotel. I could walk to the Pemayangtse monastery & Rabdentse. It was away from the crowded (main Pelling) area & I had stupendous views of Mt.Khangchendzonga from my room! My room was luxurious and comfortable. The food is good but may get repetitive for longer stays.

Food:

As vegetarians, we could not taste some of the signature Sikkimese dishes. Though, wherever we went; we did manage to get a vast variety of Sikkimese veg food: Momos (steamed dumplings), Chowmein, Thukpa (noodle soup), salads, and steamed rice with gravies. Much to our surprise, Sikkimese are big rice eaters; they eat it with gravies & pickle for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Rice is cultivated extensively in Sikkim, in picturesque, terraced fields. We also tried yummy Tibetan food. Sikkim is a state of avid tea drinkers, drinking various varieties throughout the day; which suited us fine. Besides regular tea as we know it, they also make salted tea & salt-butter tea. Both are very unique & I liked them. The other local brew is a beer made using fermented millet, called 'Tongba' or 'Che'.

High altitude travel:

Acute Mountain sickness (AMS) is commonly faced if you travel to higher altitudes, especially during winter. In Sikkim, almost all of North Sikkim is at extremely high altitudes. Plan your itinerary intelligently. Spend your first few days at Gangtok; to acclimatise to the cold weather. Then, go to Lachung first (as it is at a lower altitude than Lachen). Next, go to Lachen & Gurudongmar (the lake is at an extremely high altitude at 17,300 feet & you will face altitude sickness). A gradual ascent like this will help reduce your altitude sickness. All operators usually take you to Lachen first. Definitely insist on going to Lachung first. It works out much better for your health. That’s what I did.

Also, take your time. Most popular packages to North Sikkim are 2-night ones, from Gangtok; with 1 night each at Lachen & Lachung. I've seen many travellers fall sick due to suddenly going to high altitudes and due to the hectic travel & sightseeing. Opt for 3 or 4 nights if you can.

While travelling to high altitudes, especially on windy roads; people prone to motion sickness would do well to take anti-nausea tablets. Ask your doctor to prescribe some. There are no tablets to combat the high altitude. But, locals advised eating chocolates & popcorn. Avoid alcohol & caffeinated drinks. I did all of the above, along-with a gradual ascent.

Websites & useful planning resources:

Indiamike & Team-bhp posts:

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/off-beat-destinations-in-sikkim-t55989/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/trekking-in-sikkim-t56053/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/pedong-rishi-valley-nathang-valley-t69725/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/comprehensive-information-for-a-north-sikkim-trip-t65655/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/sikkim-tour-vehicle-hire-rates-required-t70813/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/north-sikkim-memorable-trip-t82040/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/north-sikkim-trip-t68372/

http://www.indiamike.com/india/sikkim-f34/ambling-along-the-old-silk-route-a-journey-through-east-sikkim-t100499/

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/73984-ambling-along-old-silk-route-journey-through-east-sikkim.html#post1692970

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/60100-along-forgotten-trail-silk-route-east-sikkim-pedong-rishi-aritar-zuluk-jelepla-2.html

Travel agents:

www.khangrii.com

www.yaknyeti.com

www.exploresikkim.com

www.tibettoursikkim.com

www.ecotoursandtreks.com

www.modern-hospitality.com

Others:

http://sikkim.gov.in/calander-2011.pdf

www.webindia123.com/festival/asp/statewise_calendar.asp?state=Sikkim

http://www.sikkimtourismforum.com/

www.sikkiminfo.net

http://www.roughguides.com/travel/asia/india/sikkim.aspx

http://www.mayallyang.com/

http://www.myhimalayas.com/goechela/image/index.htm

http://sites.google.com/site/suhanasafarbyks/

http://blogs.gonomad.com/traveltalesfromindia/?s=sikkim

http://piran.wordpress.com/category/travel/sikkim-travel/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bhavin50/sets/72157623870355528/

http://in.weather.com/weather/today-Gangtok-INXX0049?fromSearch=true

http://www.timeanddate.com/weather/india/gangtok

http://weather.msn.com/local.aspx?wealocations=wc:INXX0049&q=Gangtok%2c+IND

Shopping:

The Handicraft & Handloom Emporium is at Zero point, Gangtok. It is open from 10am to 4pm, mon-sat. This store stocks handicrafts, curios, souvenirs, masks, fabrics & dresses. I went there in December. Unfortunately, as it was Losoong (New Year), the students making the handicrafts had not made anything for the past few months & we only got some un-appealing stock. But, I spoke to many locals, who vouch for the variety & quality of this store. So, definitely check it out. It will also be a good way of encouraging the students who learn here.

A place where I got good knick knacks (inexpensive too) is at the small cafe & gift store outside Namgyal Institute of Tibetology.  There are shops on MG marg as well, but, they didn't appeal too much to me. The best collection that I found on MG marg was at a shop called 'Souvenirs'. It looked expensive, but, I found some nice things there.  The road to Rumtek Monastery (when you walk up) is also lined with curio shops.

Gangtok is your best bet for shopping. I doubt if there is anything in the North….We were looking to buy handicrafts from locals rather than big shops, but, didn't find anything.

Car hire / Travelling around Sikkim:

We were told that an exclusive vehicle for 2 people would cost 2500 per day, if we wanted the same vehicle to be with us continuously (from Bagdogra to Bagdogra). Otherwise, you can hire separate vehicles for each day & the cost will work out based on the distance travelled that day. For us, it worked out cheaper, so we opted for that.  Also, a problem in Sikkim is that vehicles have permits to ply only in certain zones (East Sikkim, North Sikkim, West Sikkim & South Sikkim). If you want the same car to go to all places, it has to be one with an all-Sikkim permit. Hiring local vehicles solves both the cost & permit problems.

Some typical rates that we paid (exclusive vehicle for 2 people, in Dec 2009). Prices in INR:

Bagdogra airport to Gangtok - 2500 (Wagon R)

Changu Lake trip - 1800 (Mahindra Maxx)

Full day trip in Gangtok & Rumtek - 1500 (Wagon R)

Gangtok to Pelling - 2500 (Tavera)

1/2 day Sightseeing in Pelling - 800 (Mahindra Maxx)

Also, in Gangtok & Pelling, we used the local taxis quite a bit. They are really cheap. And you can walk a lot too. Note that these are winter prices. Prices in summer / during peak tourist season are higher.

Share taxis are available in most towns / villages from the main taxi/bus stand. Buses too ply between major towns. These shared options are much cheaper. e.g. under Rs. 200 per person for Pelling-Darjeeling, which otherwise cost us Rs. 2500 for our own vehicle. But; they pack upto 12 people & luggage in a Tata Sumo (8 seater) and it can get uncomfortable if you have a lot of luggage or if you are claustrophobic.

In a lot of travel forums, travellers had strongly advised us to use the vehicle ‘Mahindra Maxx’, for any journey on icy roads. Most travel agents we contacted would hire out a Tata Sumo as the default & we had to specifically insist on the Mahindra Maxx. It was one of the best bits of advice given to us. The vehicle was extremely stable; where other vehicles including the Sumo & the Innova skidded uncontrollably en-route to Gurudongmar Lake, our vehicle got through without any problems.

Monasteries:

Rumtek monastery is one of the oldest in Sikkim & at the outskirts of Gangtok.  I would highly recommend combining a visit to Rumtek with a visit to the nearby Lingdum monastery. Though it is brand new, I really loved the setting & the peaceful feel of Lingdum. In Gangtok, Enchey monastery is the largest. Both Rumtek & Enchey monasteries have Chaam dance performaces during Losoong.

Pemayangtse & Sangachoeling monasteries are in Pelling. The Rabdentse ruins too are in Pelling. All these can be covered in a day. Yuksom, which is a 1-1/2 hrs drive from Pelling, has the Dubdi monastery. Dubdi monastery requires a 45 minute or more (depending on fitness) uphill walk. So does the Sangachoeling monastery (30-45 minutes). Plan time allowances accordingly.

We saw the small Bon monastery at Ravangla, on our way from Gangtok to Pelling.

Samdruptse is near Namchi, in South Sikkim. That’s about 3 hrs from Pelling / 3.5 hrs from Gangtok. Samdruptse is famous for a huge statue of Padmasambhava.

If you are travelling in Dec/Jan, check to see if any monasteries in Sikkim have their Chaam dances & then visit on that day. Check the Sikkimese calendar online.

Read this to know more about my experience in Sikkim.