Ranthambore National Park: Information & Tips

Published in December 2016, in www.natureinfocus.com, a nature and wildlife-specific website

Ranthambore National Park is a part of the larger Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, the only forest reserve in Rajasthan that is home to the Royal Bengal Tiger. This erstwhile hunting-ground of royal families was one of the first nine tiger reserves set up under ‘Project Tiger’ in 1973.

Tucked between the Aravallis and the Vindhyas, Ranthambore’s dry deciduous forests boast an impressive biodiversity of flora and fauna. The terrain is largely hilly, characterised by plateaus, vertical cliffs, seasonal and perennial streams cutting through the rock, and water-bodies.

Ranthambore National Park is unique thanks to the presence of its fort, built in the 10^th century, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013. The fort and its surroundings also house temples, monuments and ruins, making it one of the few national parks where pilgrims and visitors can access these areas by foot.

Travelled in: January 2016

Cormorants basking in the afternoon sun, in a unique Ranthambore habitat of a seasonal stream running alongside a rocky cliff.

Getting there:

• Air: Jaipur International Airport (160-170 kms, 3.5 hrs) is the nearest airport. Delhi’s IGI Airport (370-380 kms, 7 to 7.5 hrs) offers more flight options than Jaipur.
• Rail: Sawai Madhopur (3-12 kms / 5-20 min from hotels) is well-connected by trains from Delhi, Mumbai and other cities in Rajasthan.
• Road: Ranthambore is at a comfortable driving distance from popular tourist destinations like Jaipur, Ajmer and Agra (ranging from 3.5 to 5 hrs). It is also possible to drive to Ranthambore from Delhi / NCR (up to 8 hrs).

The drive to Ranthambore is very scenic in winters, with mustard fields dotting the route.

Wildlife themed murals painted inside Sawai Madhopur station.

Climate and best time to visit:

• Summer: April - June are the hottest months, with day temperatures over 40 degrees. During summers, big cats and other mammals are often spotted at water-bodies.
• Winter: Nov – Feb are the coolest months, with temperatures ranging from 15 to 20 degrees during the day. Morning safaris can feel much colder. This season is also the best for bird-watching enthusiasts.
• March and October are pleasant, transitional months. Visiting during these months is advantageous due to fewer crowds.
• The park is shut from 1^st July to 30^th September.

A tiger sits in a shaded spot by a water-body, surrounded by the park’s characteristic rolling hills.

Stay:

Most hotels are clustered near Sawai Madhopur, to the west of Ranthambore National Park, along the arterial Ranthambore Road. Another cluster of hotels (mostly high-end, though) is located along the same road, in villages to the north of the national park. Most visitors prefer hotels in close proximity to Sawai Madhopur, as it offers easy access to tourist facilities.

High-end: Oberoi Vanyavilas, Khem Vilas, Vivanta by Taj (INR. 23,000 – 50,000 for a double room + complimentary breakfast)

Mid-range: Ranthambore Bagh, Kipling Lodge (INR. 4000 – 14,000 for a double room + complimentary breakfast)

Budget: Ranthambore Tiger Home, Hotel Green View Ranthambore, Hotel Green Valley (INR. 1200 – 2500 for a double room + complimentary breakfast)

Accommodation in well-furnished luxury tents is common in many mid-range and high-end hotels. 

Good to know:

• Sawai Madhopur is the nearest town offering all tourist facilities (ATMs, petrol bunks, pharmacies, and convenience stores) and a hospital.
• Most mid-range and high-end hotels also arrange for a doctor on call.
• All major mobile phone networks provide good coverage in the region, including basic data connectivity.
• There are no functional bathrooms within the national park (only designated ‘stop / rest areas’). Use bathrooms in hotels.

What to pack:

• During summer, carry loose cotton clothes, a hat / cap, sunglasses and sunscreen lotion.
• During winter, carry layered warm clothing, a jacket, woollen cap, muffler, and gloves. Wear closed footwear with socks to stay warm.
• Camera gear.
• Binoculars, especially if you are an avid bird-watcher.
• Bird-watching field guide.
• Mosquito repellent.
• A torch for emergencies.
• Emergency medication and prescription medicines.

Tips for photographers:

• Ranthambore National Park has 10 zones, with some more popular than the others; try having safaris allocated across different zones, as many zones vary in topography. This is difficult unless you book 3-4 months in advance, and isn’t guaranteed even then.
• Book safaris at least three or four months in advance, as they fill up quickly. Early booking also allows you to select zones of your choice.
• Since each zone of Ranthambore has a different landscape, some that even include ruins of monuments, carry a wide-angle lens (between 10mm & 24mm), which allows you to capture panoramas. This lens is also useful to compose a photograph with an animal in its habitat.
• You could also carry your kit lens (between 18mm & 70mm) to capture interesting photographs of pilgrims walking through the forest to access the many temples within.
• A telephoto lens of at least 300mm focal length is essential.
• For heavy lenses, carry a bean-bag to rest your camera on.
• Tripods are quite useless on safaris, as Gypsies don’t accommodate them.

One of Ranthambore’s wetland areas, taking on a reddish-pink hue in winter.

Sambar walking through the grasslands, drinking water at small collection pools.

Some of the safari paths are so narrow that vehicles have to wait many minutes (or even hours, rarely) for animals to descend down the steep slope, before moving ahead.

What to do in between safaris:

• Visit the Ranthambore Fort directly after the morning safari (carry a packed breakfast from your hotel), or after breakfast at your hotel (returning before the afternoon safari). The fort can only be accessed via a slightly tiring climb, but it makes up for it by offering panoramic views of Ranthambore National Park. Set aside at least two or three hours for the entire trip (including the climb, time spent at the fort and monuments, and the descent).
• There is a Ganesh Temple near the fort’s main gate, which is especially lively on Wednesdays.
• The region around Ranthambore National Park has a few lakes and areas for bird-watching, and the season is particularly excellent from November to February. These need to be visited in lieu of safaris though, as early mornings and late afternoons are the best times.

Don’t Miss:

• After the morning safari, do not miss feasting on piping hot kachoris (onion or dal), served with chutneys or a gravy, and masala chai. These roadside stalls are located at the main intersection of Ranthambore Road and the road that turns towards the national park.
• Sawai Madhopur Railway Station has been beautifully painted, with murals on its walls and ceilings depicting nature and wildlife. It is open to the public. People can walk into the outer zones of the station and see the murals there, without any ticket. The platforms also have murals, for which purchasing a platform ticket is advised before going in.
• Shop at Dastkar Kendra, run by an NGO working with local women to promote local arts, crafts and clothing. Profits from sales directly benefit the women. It is located just off Ranthambore Road, closer to the northern cluster of hotels at Sherpur-Khilchipur. You could also shop at local markets in Sawai Madhopur.
• Rajasthani folk music and dance performances are arranged on some evenings by mid-range and high-end hotels, for their guests.
• Visits to nearby villages can be arranged by most hotels, for a flavour of rural Rajasthan.

Fresh kachoris and tea being made at one of the many stalls on the way to Ranthambore National Park’s main entrance.

Wildlife themed murals painted inside Sawai Madhopur station.

Budget per person:

• Jeep safari prices range from approx. Rs. 7000 to Rs. 10,000 per Gypsy, per safari (if booked through your hotel, including their ‘service charge’). Gypsies can seat two to four photographers (comfortably, depending on amount of gear) and six non-photographers. A Gypsy can also be booked for private use, or for lesser than its full capacity of six passengers, by paying its full rate.
• Canter safaris are more economical, costing anywhere from Rs. 800 to Rs. 1200 per person (if booked through your hotel, including their ‘service charge’). A Canter accommodates up to 20 people.
• Theoretically, it is possible to book safaris online at official government prices that are lower than the rates charged by hotels. However, the website rarely works. 

A safari canter at a lake.

A jeep safari

Thadiyandamol Trek: Information & Tips

For my Thadiyandamol trek's story, click here

Travelled in: October 2013

Getting there:

1. By bus - The trek routes start from near Kakkabe, a small town in Coorg. Virajpet, approximately 30 kms away from Kakkabe, is a larger town with good bus connectivity to other cities. Infrequent local buses ply between Virajpet and Kakkabe.

2. By car – Coorg is easily accessible by road from most cities in southern & coastal Karnataka and northern Kerala.

3. By air – The nearest airports are at Mangalore, Mysore and Kozhikode.

Accommodation:

1. Palace Estate – This home-stay next to the Nalknad Palace is literally at the beginning of the trek route, and makes for a very convenient base. It tends to be extremely popular with non-trekkers too, so book well in advance.

2. Honey Valley Estate and Chingaara Guest House – these sister properties are home-stays located a 20-30 minute drive away from the Nalknad Palace. Both have basic food and accommodation, of which Chingaara is a newer property with a few more mod-cons. Honey Valley Estate is very well-known, so it’s better to book in advance.

3.  The Tamara – This is a luxury resort located on the same road as Chingaara.

I stayed at Chingaara Guest House and recommend it for its clean rooms and bathrooms. Food is average.

Trek route:

The most popular trek route to Thadiyandamol begins near Nalknad Palace, and is a little over 6 kms each way. It should take you 3-4 hours each way, depending on your trekking speed and the weather conditions that day. Hire a vehicle from your accommodation to drop you at the palace.

If you are arriving by a local bus from Virajpet (going towards Kakkabe), alight at the junction of the road to Nalknad Palace. Your only option may be to walk the additional 2.5 odd kms (uphill) to Nalknad Palace. Remember to allow for this additional distance and time, taking your trek length to 8 - 9 kms till the peak.

The trek route is motorable until a few kilometers beyond the Nalknad Palace. If you do hire a vehicle from your resort to drop you off and pick you up from this motorable point, you can shave some more distance off the trek, bringing the distance to approx. 4.5 kms each way.

This trek route (known as the palace route) is a well-worn trail, and if you stick to the path, is easy to follow.

There is another trek route which begins at Honey Valley Estate, which is almost double in distance (over 14 kms each way), and is not easily navigable without a local guide. Though this route is reputedly much more scenic than the palace route, it is out of bounds for everybody except guests of the estate.

Guide and Naturalist:

• The palace route doesn’t require the services of a guide, but the Honey Valley route does. If needed in either case, local guides can be organised by your home-stay.
• If you have specific interest in the flora and fauna of Thadiyandamol and its surroundings, it is imperative to trek with a knowledgeable naturalist. This ensures that you aren’t stumbling about in the dark, as most of the flora and fauna are either camouflaged, or difficult to spot due to their size or dim lighting conditions. Going with a naturalist also prevents you from accidentally damaging the ecosystem by going off-path in critical areas.
• I travelled with Bangalore-based naturalist Dilan Mandanna, who organised the stay and the trek, besides being our naturalist during the trek. Having grown up in Coorg, he is very well-versed with local flora and fauna. He can be reached at: mandil47@gmail.com or 98800-50977

Miscellaneous:

• The best season for the trek is from Oct-Feb, when the SW monsoon has just passed, and the weather is cool and skies are relatively clear. However, the route is open all year long.
• If trekking during the monsoon (June-Sep), watch out for significantly higher number of leeches than usual. And, wear footwear with extra grip or carry a trekking pole for added support for the rocky stretch of the trek.
• Carry a backpack with water for the day, food, torches, medicines and other trek essentials.
• Wear at least a light jacket – the weather in Thadiyandamol can change without warning, bringing mist and cold breeze.
• I’ve been told that an official board has been put up, prohibiting camping on Thadiyandamol. Your best bet would be to call any of the local estates to check, before planning your trip. However, Thadiyandamol is eminently do-able as a day trek, so this shouldn’t be cause for concern.
• I would recommend staying in the region for another day, in addition to the trek day, especially if you are fond of wildlife. All the accommodation options mentioned are expansive estates, and a haven for flora, fungi, birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects.

Karnataka Road-trip: Trip Log

This is a trip log from our 18-day road-trip around Coastal and Western Karnataka (with a few days in Goa). Details of our daily itinerary have been mentioned, alongwith some tips and distance travelled during the day. This should help you plan the time required in each place, as well as things that can be covered in a day.

Travelled in: Jan-Feb 2013

Itinerary:

Bangalore-Sravanabelagola-Sakleshpur-Belur/Halebidu-Venoor-Moodabidri-Mangalore-Udupi-Goa-Gokarna-Murudeshwar-Hulgol-Bhadra-Bangalore

Day 1 - 15th Jan, Sravanabelagola & Sakleshpur

Left Bangalore at 7:15 am. Had breakfast at Café coffee day in Yadiyur. Reached Sravanabelagola at 10:15 am. Climbed 700-odd steps uphill, on the hot stone steps; heeding local advice, wore socks, which saved our feet from burning, as footwear is not allowed. Spent 2 hours looking at the Bahubali statue and other smaller shrines. Though Sravanabelagola in the heat had worn us down a bit, decided to brave 200 odd steps to Chandragiri, the hill opposite. The beautiful Parswanath statue was absolutely worth the climb! Spent an hour at Chandragiri, before leaving for Sakleshpur. After lunch at Channarayapatna, reached Sakleshpur at 4pm and drove on beyond to Mugilu, our home-stay. Spent the evening walking around meadows and went out to see stars after dinner, in the crystal-clear sky.

Kms covered: 266

Day 2 - 16th Jan, Sakleshpur

Woke at 6am - too cold! Woke again by 6:30, had coffee and left for a trek. Walked through the meadows, up another hill and down to a stream. Back after 2 hours, for breakfast and a nap, to get rid of fatigue from yesterday. After lunch, left for Belur, to see the Chennakesava temple. Tip - the temple faces east so mornings will be best time to visit. The craftsmanship of the temples defies descriptions! Left the temple after spending 3 hours there; much more than we’d expected. So, had to abandon plans of visiting Halebidu. Returned to Mugilu at 8 pm, in pitch darkness.

Kms covered: 102

Total distance so far: 368

Day 3 - 17th Jan, Moodabidri and drive to Mangalore

Went for a walk in the meadows, in the morning. Left after breakfast, and drove via the highly scenic and winding Shiradi Ghat, alongside a beautiful river. Saw a quirky church and a wedding hall along the way. Quick lunch break at Uppinangadi, at hotel Aditya, on the highway. Good service and food. Drove towards Moodabidri - people directed us to a route via Bantwal, on BC road, but, decided to take the route via Belthangady. Gravel, single lane road for 3-4 kms, as work is going on. After Belthangady, reached Padangady and had a quick stop at a Jain temple there. Next, at Venoor, saw a temple accessed via high steps, but it was closed. But, saw a Gomateshwara statue and temple. Left Venoor at 4 pm and reached Moodabidri at 4:45 pm.

Went to Moodabidri’s famous 1000-pillar temple; the architecture was unique. Left after an hour and went hunting for the ‘guide-book recommended’ Guru basadi (Jain temple) on temple street. Got lost and saw a scenic old pond and Jain tombs instead. In fast-fading evening light, took the road behind the pond, got more lost, and met a priest sweeping the street. Saw his Hira basadi, with beautiful mud tirthankaras and goddesses Padmini and Lakshmi. The joys of getting lost! Finally, the priest directed us to Guru basadi, and we saw the evening aarti. Left Moodabidri at 6:45 pm, almost 2 hours behind our preferred schedule, to avoid night driving. Reached our hotel in Mangalore (35 kms away) at 8 pm.

Kms covered: 192
Total distance so far: 560

Day 4 - 18th Jan, Udupi & St. Mary’s

Awoke late and left only at 10 am, to Malpe dock and pier for the St. Mary’s ferry. From Mon-Fri, fixed departures are only at 10 am and 3 pm. But, if they have a minimum of 30 people, they depart even at other times. It takes 30 min to reach the island and the ferry will wait for 1 hour, to bring you back. Speedboats are supposed to be available from Malpe beach, which takes only 15 min. Tip - choppy waters, so take medicine; and, speedboats may be a bad idea for the same reason. We had very few people waiting so decided to not waste time and went to Udupi instead (20 min away).

Reached Udupi’s Car Street (pedestrians only) and had lunch of masala dosa and bun, Udupi style, at the famous ‘Mitra Samaj’. Went to Chandramoulishwara, Anantheshwar and Krishna temples. No photography is allowed at the Krishna temple. Had a jostled darshan; it was ‘Lakshmi alankaram’ for the idol as it was a Friday. Left Udupi and reached St.Mary’s ferry point for the 3 pm departure. St. Mary’s island is so beautiful but heavily littered, with broken alcohol bottles everywhere. It made me want to cry; we take no pride in whatever beauty our country has, and spoil it by littering. Reached the dock and drove back to Udupi by 5 pm, expecting to see the 'evening bustle', but there was none. The chariot was only going to be lit by 7 pm. Finally, at 6:30 pm, left Udupi and reached Mangalore for dinner. Went to iconic ‘Ideal’ and had local specialities - ghee roast and gadbad.

Kms covered: 140

Total distance so far: 700

Day 5 - 19th Jan, Mangalore and Kambala

After breakfast, went to Mangala Devi temple, Rozario cathedral and St.Aloysius chapel. Rozario has beautiful epitaphs. Aloysius has amazing paintings, frescoes and canvases; it took a little over 2 years to be painted by an Italian artist. There isn’t any other such painted chapel in the world, other than Sistine. Photography isn’t allowed. Went to ‘Ideal’ again, for lunch….hooked on to the local food. Left after lunch, to go to the Kambala (a ritual/sport of bullock racing) near Kinnigoli. Saw the Durga Parmeshwari temple at Kateel, en-route. It was originally very small, but has been expanded. No photography allowed inside. The idol is very different – a featureless black stone. We reached the Kambala venue by 4 pm, just as the main races were beginning. It was quite an experience to be a part of village festivities and to see the sheer muscle-power on display. Reluctantly left at 8:30 pm, as we had an hour’s drive back to Mangalore.

Kms covered: 82

Total distance so far: 782

Day 6 - 20th Jan, drive from Mangalore to Goa

Left Mangalore after a late breakfast and drove to Goa via NH-17. Stopped for quick breaks at Kaup beach (to see the lighthouse), Marvanthe (to enjoy the stretch of road with the sea on one side and the river on the other) and to see a view from the bridge at Bhatkal (a lovely panorama of the surroundings). Drove past Karwar but it was post-sunset, so didn’t stop. Reached Varca, our destination in Goa, at 8:30 pm.

Kms covered: 358

Total distance so far: 1140

Day 7 - 21st Jan, Goa

Bummed at Varca beach the whole day, from breakfast to sunset. The beach is much quieter than most popular beaches, and has a few good shacks and a good stretch of sea. Didn’t move from the beach, except for a quick drive to the nearest ATM.

Kms covered: 6

Total distance so far: 1146

Day 8 - 22nd Jan, Goa

After breakfast, left to explore beaches in South Goa. It is a beautiful drive through ghats. Reached Palolem at 11:30 am - pretty beach with islands, but, crowded (has shops lining the approach road, like Baga / Calangute). Left after an hour to go to Patnem; reached in time for lunch, and settled in a shack. Patnem is also pretty, with palms along the coast. But, non-crowded, and mostly filled with foreigners. At the beach till 6 pm. Reached Varca after a 1-hour drive.

Kms covered: 81

Total distance so far: 1227

Day 9 - 23rd Jan, Goa

Had breakfast and left for Panaji. Drove till Madgaon before we felt sleepy and lethargic. Returned to Varca, napped, went to Varca beach and settled down in the shack till sunset. Saw a lot of Starfish in the sand today.

Kms covered: 22 kms

Total distance so far: 1251

Day 10 - 24th Jan, Goa

Feeling fine today so decided to go to Panaji. Drove via Madgaon, trying to find the recommended ‘Jilla bakery’ at Loutolim. It is 8 kms from Madgaon circle, on the Ponda road, run by a family from their home. Bought a lot of biscuits and cakes – polished off the divine custard éclairs, sitting in the car outside their home, and ran back to buy more. Already 1:30, but decided to reach Panaji (35 kms away) and have lunch. Had lunch at Tulip restaurant in Marigold hotel, the only one we could find easily. The food was fine.

Left at 3:30 and went to ‘Our lady of Immaculate Conception’, a beautiful white church. Then, drove to old Goa to see Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral and Francis D'assissi. Gave a lift to a man who said he would show us the road to old Goa, but he turned out to be heavily drunk, so had to put him in a bus, halfway down the route. Drove via old houses in Ribander, known for its traditional architecture, but did not see any oyster-shell windows I was looking for; since we were late, couldn’t spend time looking at the houses. Reached old Goa only at 4:15 pm, hired a guide, and saw the churches. They shut at 5:30 pm and we just about made it to the last one! Reached Varca and packed to leave tomorrow.

Kms covered: 118 kms

Total distance so far: 1369

Day 11 - 25th Jan, Gokarna

After breakfast, checked out and left for Gokarna. Reached Gokarna in 3 hours. Had lunch at ‘Purohit’, at the town entrance, and it was bad! Reached the guesthouse and took an afternoon nap. Left for Om beach at 4 pm. There isn’t a good view of the 'Om', like you see in many photographs, unless you fly over the beach. Om beach is crowded! Took a motorboat ride to see Half-moon and Paradise beaches. Show shoals of silver fish jumping, and, the fins of 3 to 4 dolphins. Back in Gokarna town just before sunset, walked around...it is great for people photography! Saw the Maha Ganapati temple with a very different statue - a standing Ganesha in black stone. Went to the Shiva temple (Mahabaleshwar temple), but, could not go in due to the maddening rush as the main aarti was in progress. Foreigners are not allowed inside either temple. Had dinner at ‘Pai hotel’, a small eatery serving good local food.

Kms covered: 135 kms

Total distance so far: 1514

Day 12 - 26th Jan, Gokarna

Left for the temples at 7:45 am; had breakfast on the way. Restaurants open at 4 am or 6 am here! Republic day function for school kids going on, so had huge jams. Long queue again at Mahabaleshwar temple (might take 3 hrs, they said)! Conned by priests into taking Rs.1101 silver abhishekha so that we could go in, when we just needed to take the basic Rs.250 one. Very upset about this. The Shiva linga has to be felt from a hole in the ground. Finished the elaborate puja and visited the Parvati temple behind. Decided to go dolphin-watching again. Marginally better luck than yesterday; got dropped at Kudle beach afterwards. Lunch at ‘Shangrila’ shack - pizza, falafel and pancakes. They have rooms too. Liked Kudle beach much better than Om - sheltered, quieter, less littered, has shacks. Need to lie on the sand in the open, though, unlike Goa. 

The owner of our guesthouse freaked me out about the diving in Murudeshwar...there have been a lot of deaths this week in the seas at Goa, Gokarna and Murudeshwar! Don't want to dive now! Left for Murudeshwar at 4:30 pm and reached under 2 hours. Massive traffic jam on the 2 kms long road leading to Murudeshwar from the highway, due to the long weekend...dangerously narrow streets with 2-way cars, people and stalls! Reached our hotel after an agonizing 45 min for 2 kms! Went to Dreamz Diving to meet the team and the participants in today’s dive...feeling a bit reassured now.

Kms covered: 81 kms

Total distance so far: 1595

Day 13 - 27th Jan, Murudeshwar

Reported for diving at 8:45 am, but, a group of certified divers left first so we waited until 10:45 to board the boat. Thirteen of us, all first timers, receive a briefing on the boat. Reach Netrani Island at 12:30 pm. We only dock at Netrani, not alight from the boat. After some snorkeling for practice, we take turns diving, with our instructor. Being pushed backwards from the boat is scary. My heart pounds as I fall in, sink, and then float up....drowning and dying must feel terrible! I dive twice, but cannot descend beyond 5 metres. Being water-phobic, I keep swallowing water as I panic. Others dive 12-15 metres. Despite that, I see blue and yellow striped fish, black fish, a navy blue fish, a polka dotted and striped B&W fish, an orange fish etc. Others describe their dive as ‘life-changing’. I’m told to return after reducing my water-phobia. Am nauseous on the boat ride back...haven't eaten anything since breakfast. We eat room service lunch at 5:30 pm and are knocked out cold due to exhaustion.

Kms covered: 0 kms

Total distance so far: 1595

Day 14 - 28th Jan, Murudeshwar & Hulgol

Awoke later than planned, as we were tired. After breakfast, went to the Bhoo-kailasa museum to see the Atmalinga story narrated using kitsch statues with lifelike expressions. Saw Murudeshwar’s famous Shiva statue from the outside. Our car had a punctured tyre, so left in a hurry without going to the beach or inside the temple. Repaired the tyre and left by 11 am. Reached Edagunji temple (30 min away), to see the unique, standing ‘bal-ganesha’ statue with both tusks intact. The one in Gokarna is an ‘ekadanta’. Left for Hulgol 2 hours behind schedule! There is a steep ghat road till Jog falls, before deviating towards Sirsi. Didn't stop to see Jog falls as the water was apparently just a trickle.

Reached Hulgol after 3pm, for a late lunch. Left with Girish, our guide, for a trek at 5 pm. He tells us that the Brahmins in Sirsi are originally from Assam, invited by the ruling dynasty 800 years ago to come and settle here. Many youngsters from this generation, however, prefer living in cities; Girish foresees that in 10 years, the way of life in the village will end. Walking through the region’s famed spice plantations, we reached a sunset point, to enjoy a beautiful view, layering of trees and flocks of birds returning home. After sunset, saw the village the blacksmith work at his home-office. He’s been working from 5 am to 8 pm for 30 years now, using cold water, fire, hammer and a metal file to make implements and instruments. Also went to a home producing sugarcane and jaggery and saw the process of making jaggery. At least 50 people drop by at the house each day, to drink sugarcane juice. They refused to take any payment for the numerous glasses we’d gulped down, saying we’re guests; a moving gesture.

Kms covered: 165 kms

Total distance so far: 1760

Day 15 - 29th Jan, Hulgol

Had a sumptuous breakfast of local specialities, cooked by women from the village. A 13kms long trek lay ahead. First, walked till a lake, spotting many birds in the forest along the way. Went to a viewing tower by the lake, and saw a huge flock of ducks flying around in circles. Next, trekked to a 17th century Vishnu temple with carvings similar to Belur-Halebidu. Ate our packed lunch and napped a while, in the shaded temple courtyard. On the way back, sprained my knee while looking at the sky and walking, but had no choice except to continue on foot. Stopped at some Jain monks’ tombs; Jains have been in Sirsi since many centuries. Lastly, spent a lot of time at Sahasralinga, where Nandi statues and Shiva-lingas float in the river Shalmali. Wading through the river was a great way to spend time till sunset. After returning to the guesthouse, I rested my knee while hubby went with Girish to the village ‘games club’, to play Carrom.

Kms covered: 2 kms

Total distance so far: 1762

Day 16 - 30th Jan, Bhadra

We were ready to leave after breakfast, when the sight of about 20 Malabar pied hornbills on a tree distracted us. We also went to the village Ganesha temple next door and saw the statue of Huliyappa, the guardian tiger god. We finally left for Bhadra an hour behind schedule, via Sirsi & Shimoga. We reached Bhadra after a 4-hour drive and ran to have lunch as it was almost 3 pm. Our room on the island has a beautiful view! We left for the jeep safari at 4 pm - saw a few mammals and many birds. Also, hornbills sitting on the road! Today has been unbelievable hornbill luck!! Returning at 6:30 pm, we had tea and snacks. A group of cricket coaches have come here for some seminar...a bit annoying because their presentation occupies the whole dining hall, pushing us to a dingy corner during dinner, besides being extremely noisy.

Kms covered: 189 kms

Total distance so far: 1951

Day 17 - 31st Jan, Bhadra

The boat safari began only at 7 am, due to mist. Saw Ospreys at very close quarters! Back by 9 am, we breakfasted and napped. The afternoon boat safari was only at 4:30 pm, due to heat. We again had 4 sightings of Ospreys....We'd clicked a lifetime's supply of Osprey photos by now. Back in the evening, we debated about Halebidu the next day; seeing it on the way the Bangalore seemed tight. Should we stay the night at Hassan? But, rooms were expensive so we gave up. The cricket seminar got over in the evening, but most coaches were still around. They apologized for disturbing us yesterday.

Kms covered: NIL

Total distance so far: 1951

Day 18 - 1st Feb, Bhadra & Halebidu

Left for the jeep safari at 6:30 am and returned only at 9 am. Activity was low due to the cold weather and darkness; had a good Barking deer sighting, though. Managed to check out only by 11 am and reached Halebidu in 2 hours. Had lunch at the KSTDC hotel opposite the temple, and the food was bad! Halebidu’s temple looked small in comparison to Belur and it seemed like we’d be done in an hour. And then, we saw the ornate carvings; more so than Belur! Belur temple’s plan has 32 star-like pointed surfaces, but Halebidu has 64, so, more surface area! We were spellbound at the details and the Nandi statues too. We spent time at the temple till 4pm and rushed after that. We drove to the nearby Jain basadi to see the beautifully polished pillars. There was a road excavation on the way to the ruined Kedareshwara temple so we decided to skip it. We left for Bangalore at 4:30 pm, stopped for another round of chai and reached Bangalore by 9 pm.

Kms covered: 347 kms

Total distance so far: 2298

Road-trip summary: 17N/18D, 7 bases for accommodation, 2300 Kms

See this link for some photographs from the road-trip:

http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2013/02/january-on-wheels.html

Stories from various parts of this road-trip can be read here:

Bhadra: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2013/10/bhadra-still-water-still-mind.html
Gokarna: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2014/05/juggling-identities.html

Hotel details for this trip are here:

coming soon

Kaziranga, Nameri and Hoollongappar: Information & Tips

 

See my photo-essay from Kaziranga, Nameri & Hoollongappar here

Travelled in: February 2012

 

Overall Itinerary:

Bangalore – Guwahati - Nameri (3 nights) - Kaziranga (5 nights) - half-day trip to Hoollongappar –Guwahati - Bangalore. The total trip was for 8 nights / 9 days.

Overall trip cost:

The 8N / 9N trip cost me INR 20,500 (all expenses, every penny I spent) excluding flights from & to Bangalore. This cost was on a 4-sharing basis for safaris and twin sharing basis for rooms. Individual break-ups for Kaziranga, Nameri and Hoollongappar are mentioned in the respective sections. This cost is for the travel date of Feb 2012.

Kaziranga

Getting to Kaziranga:

Kaziranga can be accessed via Guwahati, Assam’s capital. Guwahati is well connected by flights from most major cities. Guwahati is also accessible via a long train journey from many parts of the country. Most early morning flights to Guwahati, except from Delhi or Kolkata, have 1 stop and land there by noon. There is a restaurant serving basic food right opposite the airport and is a convenient place to eat lunch before you drive on. Budget for a 5-hour drive, to reach Kaziranga by evening (though we did manage it in 4.5 hrs on one of the drives). You can begin your safaris the next morning onwards.

 A tip - Definitely hire an air-conditioned vehicle, even in winter. Most of the Kaziranga-Guwahati road is extremely dusty. We made the mistake of hiring a non-AC vehicle and reached our destination looking like we'd emerged from the earth.

When to go:

Jan & Feb are the best months as the forest is filled with winter migrant birds. The park is closed during the monsoon period from approx. May till October. Carry woolens for early mornings in winter.

The safari arrangement:

Safaris can be arranged through your hotel. It is advisable to book the safaris weeks or months in advance, when you book your room. Last minute permits may be difficult to arrange for, especially during peak season.

Wildgrass's (where I stayed) USP has to be its guides. Most of them have worked here since they were young and are passionate about wildlife. Our guide was Nekib and he was fabulous - excellent spotting skills, ID skills and information about flora & fauna. He could also anticipate our camera angles and guide the driver to stop accordingly. Other guides with good recommendations (who guided our friends): Palash & Kunwar. Actually, all guides at Wildgrass are known to be good so there should be no worries on that front.

The worry is the gypsy. Wildgrass gypsies have seats facing sideways. Also, they're too small for 4 people with large cameras. After our disastrous experience in it on our first safari, we hired a gypsy with front-facing seats from an external agency, for our other 9 safaris, at a marginal extra cost (Rs.300 extra per safari). Wildgrass helped arrange for this gypsy.

Our Gypsy driver was Nando. He was from the external agency from which we hired the Gypsy with front-facing seats.

The safaris: 

The Eastern zone is very good for birding and has fewer mammal sightings in comparison to the sheer variety of bird-life you see. Visit this zone in the morning, for good light. The Western zone is good for safaris in the evening light. The Central zone has areas where you can watch ‘murmurations’ at sunset which leave you spellbound, if you care to spend some time waiting for it without scouting around for other mammals & birds.

Wildgrass and most other resorts are close to the Central Zone. To visit other zones, plan to leave early.

Morning safaris – 6 am to 11:30 / 11:45 am

Evening safaris - 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm

(Check with the guides & authorities about the latest timings)

Elephant safaris are available at Kaziranga, for which you can purchase tickets beforehand. That is advisable as the tickets get sold out quite quickly. Arrange for some transport from your hotel to drop you & pick you up from the elephant safari. This safari allows you to experience the forest while moving through the tall ‘elephant grass’, so known as it is tall enough to conceal elephants. Gypsies never venture into these paths and have to stick to a road network cleared of the grass.

Accommodation:

I stayed at Wildgrass, close to Kaziranga’s central zone. They have a reasonably large property with beautiful trees which are labelled for guests' benefit. If you enjoy birding, you'll enjoy ambling around the property as the trees attract a lot of birds.

Our room and external bathroom

View of the room

Wildgrass has a few rooms with 3 or 4 beds in them, with a bathroom outside the room (but, for exclusive use by the room; not shared with any other room). These rooms are very spacious & economical and make for a great option for groups. They are like cottages, a little away from the main building. Since we were a group of 4, we opted for one such room. It was extremely spacious, with 4 beds that were almost the size of double beds. Besides, we had seating arrangements within the room itself. Despite being non-airconditioned, the room was comfortable. I would highly recommend staying in one of these rooms. The lighting in the room was a little dim, though. The external bathroom was as large as a bedroom and had towels, toilet paper & hand-soap. But, when you have many people sharing a bathroom, the hot water runs out pretty quickly so budget for time between baths. Both the room and the bathroom were clean. Wildgrass also has regular double rooms (air-conditioned, I think) in a building near the main building. 

The tariff includes breakfast. Lunch & dinner is a set menu based on your preferences, indicated at the beginning of your stay (veg/non-veg, Indian/continental). Though meals here seem expensive, they are reasonable value for money as food options are varied and portions are large. Complimentary tea & snacks are also served when you return from your afternoon safari. Food service at Wildgrass is slow so budget for that before your afternoon safaris or if you plan to have breakfast before your morning safaris. We always had breakfast boxes packed, to carry with us, to eat at designated points within the park. The leisurely dinners are enjoyable, though.

The staff is courteous and helpful. Not gregariously friendly, but, friendly in a quiet & efficient way.

Airport transfers & vehicle hire: 

We had Wildgrass drop us at Guwahati airport. The vehicle & driver were both satisfactory. We also had Wildgrass arrange a car for a half-day visit to the gibbon sanctuary at Hoollongappar. It was hassle-free.

To summarise, I would highly recommend Wildgrass as a stay option in Kaziranga, for wildlife enthusiasts.

Trip cost - Kaziranga:

For a 5-night stay, cost = INR 12,500 per person (on a 4-sharing sharing basis for the room & the safaris). Includes travel from Nameri by car, travel to Guwahati airport by car, 8 jeep safaris, 1 elephant safari, food, accommodation & tips.

Hoollongappar Gibbon sanctuary

About the park:

India's only ape, the Hoolock Gibbon, is found here. The forest here is a rainforest and is also home to other primates like the Pig-tailed macaque, Stump-tailed macaque, Assamese macaque, Capped langur & Rhesus macaque. This park is also good for birding. Another primate, the Slender Loris, is also found here. Camping in the night to try & spot the Slender Loris is possible, with permission from the Forest department. The permit is extremely difficult to obtain, though & is usually given only to researchers.

The forest has leeches so go prepared with leech socks or just pluck the leeches off you when they crawl.

Getting to Hoollongappar:

Hoollongappar gibbon sanctuary is easily accessible from Kaziranga. The roads on this route (via Jorhat) are good. The drive takes 2 to 2.5 hrs each way. Set aside about 3 hours to spend in the forest. Leave before dawn to return to Kaziranga in time for lunch and the afternoon safari.

Guide & permit:

Gibbon sanctuary guide: Mr. Deven Baruah

Phone number: 096139-29595

Call a couple of days beforehand to check if he is free & to book him. An advance permit is not necessary. It can be obtained when you get there.

Cost - Hoollongappar:

For a half-day trip from Kaziranga, cost = INR 1000 per person, on a 4-sharing basis. Includes travel from Kaziranga by car, forest entry fee, camera fee, guide charges & tips.

Nameri

Getting to Nameri:

Fly into Guwahati by an early morning flight. This allows you to reach Nameri by evening. My 7:40 am flight from Bangalore landed in Guwahati at 12 pm, after a halt at Kolkata.

For lunch, there's an airport restaurant outside the airport. This restaurant serves reasonably okay food. Another lunch option is a dhaba on the national highway, called NH52 dhaba. This dhaba makes for a good bathroom break too. This is about 1.5 hrs away from Guwahati airport.

Allow for 5.5 hrs to reach Nameri from Guwahati airport, with a short break. It usually takes 4.5 to 5 hrs of driving time, without breaks. The route is via Tezpur (on a road which leads all the way to Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh). The roads are good till Balipada. Beyond that, they are abysmal. Tip - Definitely hire an air-conditioned vehicle (even in winter) and a vehicle with good suspension and ground clearance. The road is very dusty and filled with pot-holes and craters.

When to go:

Jan & Feb are the best months as the forest is filled with winter migrant birds. The park is closed during the monsoon period from approx. late April till end October. Carry woolens for early mornings, late evenings & the rafting trip. Afternoons are quite warm even in Jan & Feb.

Accommodation & contact details:

I stayed at Kanyaka lodge near the haathi gate within the national park. When approaching from Guwahati, drive about 500 mts beyond the gate to see a board for Eastern planters to your right. Turn right at the board to enter the lodge premises.

Care-taker: Mr. Sarat Sarmah.

Phone number:  094353-81990, 3712-220093 or 3712-220091.

The caretaker is not very tech-savvy & hence, e-mail exchanges are not possible. Call to reserve your room. He's reliable & will note down your reservation. Call a few days before your trip to re-confirm.

Caretaker's wing (left) & Main wing (right)

The lodge has 1 building with 3 rooms. 2 of the rooms have small double beds with attached bathrooms & western WCs. But, there is no hot water provision in the bathrooms. These rooms cost approx 800 INR per night. The other room is a deluxe room with hot water available in the attached bathroom & a TV in the room. This room too has a double bed. The room costs approx. 1000 INR per night. The caretaker lives in another building in the lodge. This building also has 2 rooms for rent. These rooms have two separate double beds each. But, all the 3 rooms in this wing share a single bathroom. This bathroom has a geyser, though. The rent for these rooms is INR 800.

Other options for stay at Nameri: Eco camp (which is highly recommended) and Jiyabharali resort.

Food:

Food is available at Kanyaka lodge. Breakfast is basic - bread, butter, biscuits & boiled eggs. They can pack the breakfast to carry along, if you leave early in the morning to go birding until lunch. Lunch & dinner are simple but hearty local food. Food costs are extra and not included in the room tariff.

Activities:

Rafting on Jiya Bharali

The lodge arranges permissions for rafting and trekking. They also arrange local autos to transport you to & from the river.

Note: Assam, being in the NE, has earlier sunrise & sunset than the rest of India. It's daylight by 5:30 am & darkens by 5:30 pm. So, time your treks and bird-watching accordingly. Morning visibility in winter is a little poor though, due to mist.

Rafting on the Jiya Bharali River is a great way to see water-birds. Kanyaka lodge has 4-seater rafts. Two rafts-men accompany you. Eco camp has smaller, 2-seater rafts.

Trekking

Forest guard - ask for Meenaram Gogoi. He accompanies you on forest treks from Potasali camp, across the river. Trekking is only allowed until 2 pm. You can begin at 6 am. This forest has many elephants and hence, trekking without an armed guard is dangerous & prohibited.

Visit the Pygmy Hog breeding center one afternoon. You can see a couple of Pygmy hogs within an enclosure and learn about them from the panels at the information center there.

If you stay at the Kanyaka lodge, visit the fruiting trees and a small stream beyond the army eco task force camp. It's a short walk away and a great spot for some birding. Visit in the evening, when trekking elsewhere isn't allowed. You have a good chance of spotting Hornbills returning to roost.

Trip cost - Nameri:

For a 3-night stay, cost = INR 5500 per person (on a twin sharing basis for the room & 4-sharing for the raft). Includes travel from Guwahati by car, 2 rafting trips, 2 forest treks including boat trips to reach the forest, food, accommodation & tips.

Read my friend Sumeet's blog about this trip: Nameri and Kaziranga