For a city that’s often visited, surprisingly little is written about it. I often get asked a lot of questions about the city, from a motley bunch: visitors on business, their families who tag along for a holiday, travellers using Bangalore as a stop-over en-route other places in Karnataka, people living in the city looking for a place to eat or visit, or, students moving to the city.
If you’re
not worried about travel, stay or other miscellaneous information, skip this
post and go straight to what you can do in Bangalore. And, read this to
see what Bangalore offers those who want to wine & dine. For the
others, here’s my attempt at deciphering the city fondly called ‘Namma
Bengaluru’ or ‘Our Bangalore’. Hopefully, it’ll answer at least a few
questions travellers have.
Let’s begin with how you get here
Arrival by flight
If you’ve
flown in & have a lot of luggage, or, are a group of 3-4 people travelling
to the same destination, a taxi is a good option to get to the city from the
airport. Just walk out of the airport building, go to the designated taxi stand
& board one. They're metered and air-conditioned taxis.
If you don't
have too much luggage, buses are convenient & economical. You can board any
of the red, air-conditioned Volvo buses from the bus station outside the
airport. This link will help you figure out the bus number you need to
take: BMTC volvo bus service
There is also a help-desk at the bus station entrance. The staff there can guide you to the right bus number. Alight at the stop nearest to your destination and take an auto from there. Or, have somebody pick you up.
Arrival by train
If you’re
chugging into the city, pick from City station, Cantonment station, Yeshwantpur
station or any of the other smaller stations, based on the train’s scheduled
stops and the nearest station to your hotel / destination. All stations have a
pre-paid auto counter with fixed fares, so you can pay & board one, without
the hassle of haggling with auto drivers. They're shut if you arrive post 10:30
pm or pre-dawn, though. Of course, pre-paid autos work only if you have little
luggage (1 or 2 carry-on sized, with a maximum of 1 or 2 people in the auto).
Stations unfortunately do not have a comprehensive ‘any-time’ taxi service like the airport; however, a fledgeling service of ‘Fast track’ taxis or some yellow-coloured cabs is available for you to try. The counters should be located near the pre-paid auto counters. Else, you’ll need to arrange for a hotel pick-up or ask family & friends to pick you up.
The City station is also located opposite the Majestic bus terminal. If you have almost no luggage, and are familiar with the city, take a bus. Help is a little hard to come by here, if you are unfamiliar, as it is a vast bus terminus.
Stations unfortunately do not have a comprehensive ‘any-time’ taxi service like the airport; however, a fledgeling service of ‘Fast track’ taxis or some yellow-coloured cabs is available for you to try. The counters should be located near the pre-paid auto counters. Else, you’ll need to arrange for a hotel pick-up or ask family & friends to pick you up.
The City station is also located opposite the Majestic bus terminal. If you have almost no luggage, and are familiar with the city, take a bus. Help is a little hard to come by here, if you are unfamiliar, as it is a vast bus terminus.
Now, where do you stay?
The city has
no dearth of hotels; from grand old properties to contemporary business hotels.
If you want budget options, look at basic lodges and small hotels. Choose your
accommodation wisely, though, to cut down on commute as much as possible. If
you need to work at an office in Whitefield or South Bangalore, it would be
pointless to live near MG road. Choose an area close to your work-place. But,
if shopping & sightseeing is what you’re here for, stick to areas around MG
road.
For stays longer
than a week, these are some options you have:
If you need
a place for a few weeks, try Serviced apartments. They work well as you get a
furnished apartment to yourself, with basic appliances & laundry
facilities. Many also have breakfast options.
For a few
weeks, another option is to ask for a discounted rate at hotels or home-stays;
some may oblige.
For those
looking to stay for a few months or for stays of a year or more with a low
budget, consider a paying guest accommodation (called PG). This is a popular
choice of accommodation amongst working professionals & students. They have
basic rooms (shared by even 3 to 4 people), with shared bathrooms. You get a
bed and a cupboard or shelves. Common facilities may also include a TV & a
fridge. Meals are also provided in some PGs, while some may have kitchens you
can cook in. Choose your PG wisely; else, you’ll be roughing it out a bit. A
few up-market PGs have a limit of 2 people per room and have rooms with
attached bathrooms. Most PGs require a deposit upfront & then, a monthly
rent.
For stays of
a year or more, with a larger budget, you can try renting an apartment. This
requires you to pay a deposit upfront & then, a monthly rent. If your stay
duration is just a few months, you may not find too many people willing to rent
you an apartment, but, asking them doesn't harm.
Choose any
of these options depending on your budget & preferences. If you plan to
rent or get a PG accommodation, stay at a hotel for a few days when you get to
Bangalore & browse through newspapers (Ad Mag or similar papers, which have
rental listings) or get in touch with brokers. See the apartment before you
finalise it; doing it based on photographs before you get here may be unwise.
If you’re here on work, you can also get in touch with your office in
Bangalore; your colleagues can help you find a convenient place nearby.
Off-beat
stay options include one of the many spas, wellness resorts or ashrams at the
outskirts of the city.
Shopping
Sarees (Saris) & fabrics
Sarees (Saris) constitute the bulk of traditional clothing in India and are worn by many women. Fabrics, weaves, patterns and designs of sarees vary geographically and are influenced by the weather, art, traditions and culture of a particular state in India.
Sarees (Saris) & fabrics
Sarees (Saris) constitute the bulk of traditional clothing in India and are worn by many women. Fabrics, weaves, patterns and designs of sarees vary geographically and are influenced by the weather, art, traditions and culture of a particular state in India.
Karnataka is
famous for ‘Mysore silks’. These can be purchased
at KSIC
showrooms across Bangalore. Karnataka is also known for its Ilkal and Kasuti embroidery
sarees. Other than these three local weaves, generic Indian sarees too are
available in plenty at the shops mentioned below. If you don’t wear sarees, you
can buy fabrics to use as you like.
Chikpet is a
crowded market area with shopping to suit all budgets. I've bought Sarees from
Laxmi Silks in Chikpet & found some good variety there. Of course, there
are many shops around so definitely check them out before you decide. On MG
road, you have Vijayalakshmi silks, Prasiddhi silks & Deepam (good
collection, but, very expensive). Another store near MG road is the Mysore
Saree Udyog at Commercial Street. In South Bangalore, Angadi silks in Jayangar
has unique and reasonably-priced sarees of different weaves.
Souvenirs
Bangalore is
famous for Sandalwood handicrafts. The Cauvery Emporium on MG Road is a good
bet. Also look for sandalwood sachets, which are great to place inside your
wardrobe (if you like the fragrance) and make for inexpensive gifts for friends
& family back home.
Bidri-ware
is another option in handicrafts (black metal inlaid with silver - very
attractive, but, very heavy if you already have lots of luggage).
Look out for
wooden toys called 'Channapatna toys'; they're very innovative & use
non-toxic colours. If not in Bangalore, you can also buy this at Channapatna, a
small town en-route Mysore, where this craft originates from.
Rarely, you
can also find 'Yakshagana' masks or 'Gombe aata' puppets.
All these
arts & crafts are specific to Karnataka, the state where Bangalore is
located. Other than this, generic Indian souvenirs are available in plenty.
Sight-seeing, activities & day-trips
Bangalore
may not look like it has many sight-seeing options, and, compared to a lot of
other cities, choices are limited. But, if you scratch the surface, there are
enough and more options to entertain you for 2-3 days. Bangalore is also
blessed with many day-trip and weekend trip possibilities within easy access.
Consider this - I travel more often than the average person, yet, I still have
many places to see and enjoy my weekends in.
Staying in
central Bangalore (around MG road) will allow you to walk easily to some of the
sights. For others, you will still need to hire a vehicle. For those unfamiliar
with travel in India, travelling by autos or local buses is a challenge and
recommended only for the adventurous. But, I find that some friends who visit
do like to try it out, despite the problems, which is why I've mentioned the
option. Hiring a car for the day is much simpler and highly recommended.
Due to the unfortunate lack of a good public transport system, most locals too
use cars to get around. The fairly new metro system connects a few localities in
Bangalore (broadly: MG road, Ulsoor, Indiranagar and Byappanahalli) and is
gaining popularity.
Cars can be
hired from one of the many agencies listed online. If you have a vehicle but do
not want to drive, driver rental services too are available.
I would
recommend going around the city yourself. Most sightseeing trips I know do a
hop-skip-jump through all sights. If you do it on your own, you have the
flexibility of staying as long as you want, at places you like. Get a good
guide-book, though, as a lot of sights do not have guides available. Another
option you have is to hire private guides or contact agencies like I've
mentioned in this post.
Photography
is allowed at most places except inside some like the Bangalore palace and
the HAL Aerospace museum. In temples, priests do not encourage taking pictures
inside the inner sanctum. You can click the temple from outside and indulge in
some people-photography.
While many trendy Bangaloreans dress pretty much like people around the world, it is advisable to dress modestly (no 'skimpy tops' or shorts) while visiting places of worship.
While many trendy Bangaloreans dress pretty much like people around the world, it is advisable to dress modestly (no 'skimpy tops' or shorts) while visiting places of worship.
Check my
detailed recommendations on what to visit, here.
Food & Drinks
Read about
what Bangalore has to offer and about my recommendations & favourites, here.
Miscellaneous information
Solo woman traveller?
It's okay to travel alone in Karnataka as long as you take some
precautions. Book good accommodation. And, annoying though it is to advise this, dress 'conservatively' to avoid
attention. Use public transport wherever possible (buses & trains) to
travel overnight between destinations; you'll feel safer in a crowd than
travelling alone by a hired taxi. For some places, you can hire a guide; you
get a better insight into the place & some company as well. People all around Karnataka are very friendly. I wouldn't
worry excessively about travelling solo, but, at the same time, it would be
wrong to say that it's totally safe.
Bangalore,
I'm sorry to say, is not very safe for women, especially after 8 pm.
This isn't meant to scare you off, but, just to let you know that you have
to be careful. There are autos & buses to get around but I wouldn't advise
that you travel alone in autos after 9 pm. Demands of excess fare and
refusal to ply to your destination are the least of your worries. If you
do have a car, you should be better off. Get a cab, booked through a reputed
agency or use your hotel cab, even if it costs way too much. In any case, take
all the precautions that you usually would, in any new city / country.
Money & payments
You can use
your credit card at almost all shops, restaurants & hotels. It's the
smaller road-side stores & eateries that don't accept them. You can pay
many air-conditioned cab services using a credit card. Visa & Mastercard
are most widely accepted. Amex is not accepted everywhere, so, check. I've had
family & friends with American and European accounts use their cards
easily; just ensure you notify your card companies about your travel plans
before you leave. ATM machines in India require a 4-digit pin so you might want
to check yours. An option is to retain your 6/7 digit pins on some cards but change at least one card to a 4-digit pin.
I wouldn't advise
paying using foreign currency like Euros or Dollars. Most places wouldn't
accept them anyways. Even if they did, you will get a very poor exchange rate.
Changing money on Saturdays / Sundays is usually not a problem. But, beware
as some agencies work on Saturday only until lunch time (1 or 1:30 pm) and
may be shut on Sundays. I think most of the bigger forex agencies should be
open.
Shopping and entertainment
The smaller
neighbourhood convenience stores or small super-markets open from about 8am. Malls
and larger stores open 10 am onwards. Stand-alone stores (not
within a mall) may be shut on Sundays, though, increasingly, many choose to
remain open.
Movies can
be watched at multiplexes in any of the ubiquitous malls around Bangalore.
Smaller, stand-alone theatres which are economically-priced are hard to come by
nowadays. Some of them still hanging around in the face of demolition are:
Urvashi, Symphony, Rex, Abhinay, Vaibhav, Cauvery, Vision cinemas, Innovative
multiplex etc.
Walks, runs & jogs
Avoid jogging or running
along roads. Even if you want to, you can’t; most roads don't have footpaths
(pavements). Cubbon Park & Lalbagh are great for running. Of course, it
depends on whether they are easily accessible to you (distance from where you
intend to stay). If they're not, no sweat; most areas of Bangalore have smaller
parks called 'mini forests' with a paved track where Bangaloreans step out for
their morning walk & jog. Attire - many women nowadays do run in shorts
as well. Most, though, wear capris or track pants. If you are very
uncomfortable in something longer, it's okay to stick to your shorts.
Similarly, wearing a T-shirt with a sleeve or a basic sleeveless top attracts
less attention than a spaghetti / racer back.
Guide-books
If you are
staying in Bangalore for a few months and plan to utilise your weekends, buy
‘21 Weekend getaways from Bangalore’ by the Outlook group. It's not too
comprehensive, but, handy enough.
Travel
forums like tripadvisor.com and indiamike.com have a lot of information and inputs from
travellers and locals. They can be used to answer specific queries you may have.
For a light
read, you can try "Bangalored" by Eshwar Sundaresan. It has a collection
of short narratives by non-Bangaloreans about their lives in the city they now
call home. There's also a bit of history thrown in at the end, about some
places in Bangalore.
Disclaimer:
None
of the links in this post are sponsored nor have I been paid to ‘recommend’
them. All links mentioned here are links that I, family or friends have found
useful.