Thadiyandamol Trek: Information & Tips

For my Thadiyandamol trek's story, click here

Travelled in: October 2013

Getting there:

1. By bus - The trek routes start from near Kakkabe, a small town in Coorg. Virajpet, approximately 30 kms away from Kakkabe, is a larger town with good bus connectivity to other cities. Infrequent local buses ply between Virajpet and Kakkabe.

2. By car – Coorg is easily accessible by road from most cities in southern & coastal Karnataka and northern Kerala.

3. By air – The nearest airports are at Mangalore, Mysore and Kozhikode.

Accommodation:

1. Palace Estate – This home-stay next to the Nalknad Palace is literally at the beginning of the trek route, and makes for a very convenient base. It tends to be extremely popular with non-trekkers too, so book well in advance.

2. Honey Valley Estate and Chingaara Guest House – these sister properties are home-stays located a 20-30 minute drive away from the Nalknad Palace. Both have basic food and accommodation, of which Chingaara is a newer property with a few more mod-cons. Honey Valley Estate is very well-known, so it’s better to book in advance.

3.  The Tamara – This is a luxury resort located on the same road as Chingaara.

I stayed at Chingaara Guest House and recommend it for its clean rooms and bathrooms. Food is average.

Trek route:

The most popular trek route to Thadiyandamol begins near Nalknad Palace, and is a little over 6 kms each way. It should take you 3-4 hours each way, depending on your trekking speed and the weather conditions that day. Hire a vehicle from your accommodation to drop you at the palace.

If you are arriving by a local bus from Virajpet (going towards Kakkabe), alight at the junction of the road to Nalknad Palace. Your only option may be to walk the additional 2.5 odd kms (uphill) to Nalknad Palace. Remember to allow for this additional distance and time, taking your trek length to 8 - 9 kms till the peak.

The trek route is motorable until a few kilometers beyond the Nalknad Palace. If you do hire a vehicle from your resort to drop you off and pick you up from this motorable point, you can shave some more distance off the trek, bringing the distance to approx. 4.5 kms each way.

This trek route (known as the palace route) is a well-worn trail, and if you stick to the path, is easy to follow.

There is another trek route which begins at Honey Valley Estate, which is almost double in distance (over 14 kms each way), and is not easily navigable without a local guide. Though this route is reputedly much more scenic than the palace route, it is out of bounds for everybody except guests of the estate.

Guide and Naturalist:

• The palace route doesn’t require the services of a guide, but the Honey Valley route does. If needed in either case, local guides can be organised by your home-stay.
• If you have specific interest in the flora and fauna of Thadiyandamol and its surroundings, it is imperative to trek with a knowledgeable naturalist. This ensures that you aren’t stumbling about in the dark, as most of the flora and fauna are either camouflaged, or difficult to spot due to their size or dim lighting conditions. Going with a naturalist also prevents you from accidentally damaging the ecosystem by going off-path in critical areas.
• I travelled with Bangalore-based naturalist Dilan Mandanna, who organised the stay and the trek, besides being our naturalist during the trek. Having grown up in Coorg, he is very well-versed with local flora and fauna. He can be reached at: mandil47@gmail.com or 98800-50977

Miscellaneous:

• The best season for the trek is from Oct-Feb, when the SW monsoon has just passed, and the weather is cool and skies are relatively clear. However, the route is open all year long.
• If trekking during the monsoon (June-Sep), watch out for significantly higher number of leeches than usual. And, wear footwear with extra grip or carry a trekking pole for added support for the rocky stretch of the trek.
• Carry a backpack with water for the day, food, torches, medicines and other trek essentials.
• Wear at least a light jacket – the weather in Thadiyandamol can change without warning, bringing mist and cold breeze.
• I’ve been told that an official board has been put up, prohibiting camping on Thadiyandamol. Your best bet would be to call any of the local estates to check, before planning your trip. However, Thadiyandamol is eminently do-able as a day trek, so this shouldn’t be cause for concern.
• I would recommend staying in the region for another day, in addition to the trek day, especially if you are fond of wildlife. All the accommodation options mentioned are expansive estates, and a haven for flora, fungi, birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects.

Karnataka Road-trip: Trip Log

This is a trip log from our 18-day road-trip around Coastal and Western Karnataka (with a few days in Goa). Details of our daily itinerary have been mentioned, alongwith some tips and distance travelled during the day. This should help you plan the time required in each place, as well as things that can be covered in a day.

Travelled in: Jan-Feb 2013

Itinerary:

Bangalore-Sravanabelagola-Sakleshpur-Belur/Halebidu-Venoor-Moodabidri-Mangalore-Udupi-Goa-Gokarna-Murudeshwar-Hulgol-Bhadra-Bangalore

Day 1 - 15th Jan, Sravanabelagola & Sakleshpur

Left Bangalore at 7:15 am. Had breakfast at Café coffee day in Yadiyur. Reached Sravanabelagola at 10:15 am. Climbed 700-odd steps uphill, on the hot stone steps; heeding local advice, wore socks, which saved our feet from burning, as footwear is not allowed. Spent 2 hours looking at the Bahubali statue and other smaller shrines. Though Sravanabelagola in the heat had worn us down a bit, decided to brave 200 odd steps to Chandragiri, the hill opposite. The beautiful Parswanath statue was absolutely worth the climb! Spent an hour at Chandragiri, before leaving for Sakleshpur. After lunch at Channarayapatna, reached Sakleshpur at 4pm and drove on beyond to Mugilu, our home-stay. Spent the evening walking around meadows and went out to see stars after dinner, in the crystal-clear sky.

Kms covered: 266

Day 2 - 16th Jan, Sakleshpur

Woke at 6am - too cold! Woke again by 6:30, had coffee and left for a trek. Walked through the meadows, up another hill and down to a stream. Back after 2 hours, for breakfast and a nap, to get rid of fatigue from yesterday. After lunch, left for Belur, to see the Chennakesava temple. Tip - the temple faces east so mornings will be best time to visit. The craftsmanship of the temples defies descriptions! Left the temple after spending 3 hours there; much more than we’d expected. So, had to abandon plans of visiting Halebidu. Returned to Mugilu at 8 pm, in pitch darkness.

Kms covered: 102

Total distance so far: 368

Day 3 - 17th Jan, Moodabidri and drive to Mangalore

Went for a walk in the meadows, in the morning. Left after breakfast, and drove via the highly scenic and winding Shiradi Ghat, alongside a beautiful river. Saw a quirky church and a wedding hall along the way. Quick lunch break at Uppinangadi, at hotel Aditya, on the highway. Good service and food. Drove towards Moodabidri - people directed us to a route via Bantwal, on BC road, but, decided to take the route via Belthangady. Gravel, single lane road for 3-4 kms, as work is going on. After Belthangady, reached Padangady and had a quick stop at a Jain temple there. Next, at Venoor, saw a temple accessed via high steps, but it was closed. But, saw a Gomateshwara statue and temple. Left Venoor at 4 pm and reached Moodabidri at 4:45 pm.

Went to Moodabidri’s famous 1000-pillar temple; the architecture was unique. Left after an hour and went hunting for the ‘guide-book recommended’ Guru basadi (Jain temple) on temple street. Got lost and saw a scenic old pond and Jain tombs instead. In fast-fading evening light, took the road behind the pond, got more lost, and met a priest sweeping the street. Saw his Hira basadi, with beautiful mud tirthankaras and goddesses Padmini and Lakshmi. The joys of getting lost! Finally, the priest directed us to Guru basadi, and we saw the evening aarti. Left Moodabidri at 6:45 pm, almost 2 hours behind our preferred schedule, to avoid night driving. Reached our hotel in Mangalore (35 kms away) at 8 pm.

Kms covered: 192
Total distance so far: 560

Day 4 - 18th Jan, Udupi & St. Mary’s

Awoke late and left only at 10 am, to Malpe dock and pier for the St. Mary’s ferry. From Mon-Fri, fixed departures are only at 10 am and 3 pm. But, if they have a minimum of 30 people, they depart even at other times. It takes 30 min to reach the island and the ferry will wait for 1 hour, to bring you back. Speedboats are supposed to be available from Malpe beach, which takes only 15 min. Tip - choppy waters, so take medicine; and, speedboats may be a bad idea for the same reason. We had very few people waiting so decided to not waste time and went to Udupi instead (20 min away).

Reached Udupi’s Car Street (pedestrians only) and had lunch of masala dosa and bun, Udupi style, at the famous ‘Mitra Samaj’. Went to Chandramoulishwara, Anantheshwar and Krishna temples. No photography is allowed at the Krishna temple. Had a jostled darshan; it was ‘Lakshmi alankaram’ for the idol as it was a Friday. Left Udupi and reached St.Mary’s ferry point for the 3 pm departure. St. Mary’s island is so beautiful but heavily littered, with broken alcohol bottles everywhere. It made me want to cry; we take no pride in whatever beauty our country has, and spoil it by littering. Reached the dock and drove back to Udupi by 5 pm, expecting to see the 'evening bustle', but there was none. The chariot was only going to be lit by 7 pm. Finally, at 6:30 pm, left Udupi and reached Mangalore for dinner. Went to iconic ‘Ideal’ and had local specialities - ghee roast and gadbad.

Kms covered: 140

Total distance so far: 700

Day 5 - 19th Jan, Mangalore and Kambala

After breakfast, went to Mangala Devi temple, Rozario cathedral and St.Aloysius chapel. Rozario has beautiful epitaphs. Aloysius has amazing paintings, frescoes and canvases; it took a little over 2 years to be painted by an Italian artist. There isn’t any other such painted chapel in the world, other than Sistine. Photography isn’t allowed. Went to ‘Ideal’ again, for lunch….hooked on to the local food. Left after lunch, to go to the Kambala (a ritual/sport of bullock racing) near Kinnigoli. Saw the Durga Parmeshwari temple at Kateel, en-route. It was originally very small, but has been expanded. No photography allowed inside. The idol is very different – a featureless black stone. We reached the Kambala venue by 4 pm, just as the main races were beginning. It was quite an experience to be a part of village festivities and to see the sheer muscle-power on display. Reluctantly left at 8:30 pm, as we had an hour’s drive back to Mangalore.

Kms covered: 82

Total distance so far: 782

Day 6 - 20th Jan, drive from Mangalore to Goa

Left Mangalore after a late breakfast and drove to Goa via NH-17. Stopped for quick breaks at Kaup beach (to see the lighthouse), Marvanthe (to enjoy the stretch of road with the sea on one side and the river on the other) and to see a view from the bridge at Bhatkal (a lovely panorama of the surroundings). Drove past Karwar but it was post-sunset, so didn’t stop. Reached Varca, our destination in Goa, at 8:30 pm.

Kms covered: 358

Total distance so far: 1140

Day 7 - 21st Jan, Goa

Bummed at Varca beach the whole day, from breakfast to sunset. The beach is much quieter than most popular beaches, and has a few good shacks and a good stretch of sea. Didn’t move from the beach, except for a quick drive to the nearest ATM.

Kms covered: 6

Total distance so far: 1146

Day 8 - 22nd Jan, Goa

After breakfast, left to explore beaches in South Goa. It is a beautiful drive through ghats. Reached Palolem at 11:30 am - pretty beach with islands, but, crowded (has shops lining the approach road, like Baga / Calangute). Left after an hour to go to Patnem; reached in time for lunch, and settled in a shack. Patnem is also pretty, with palms along the coast. But, non-crowded, and mostly filled with foreigners. At the beach till 6 pm. Reached Varca after a 1-hour drive.

Kms covered: 81

Total distance so far: 1227

Day 9 - 23rd Jan, Goa

Had breakfast and left for Panaji. Drove till Madgaon before we felt sleepy and lethargic. Returned to Varca, napped, went to Varca beach and settled down in the shack till sunset. Saw a lot of Starfish in the sand today.

Kms covered: 22 kms

Total distance so far: 1251

Day 10 - 24th Jan, Goa

Feeling fine today so decided to go to Panaji. Drove via Madgaon, trying to find the recommended ‘Jilla bakery’ at Loutolim. It is 8 kms from Madgaon circle, on the Ponda road, run by a family from their home. Bought a lot of biscuits and cakes – polished off the divine custard éclairs, sitting in the car outside their home, and ran back to buy more. Already 1:30, but decided to reach Panaji (35 kms away) and have lunch. Had lunch at Tulip restaurant in Marigold hotel, the only one we could find easily. The food was fine.

Left at 3:30 and went to ‘Our lady of Immaculate Conception’, a beautiful white church. Then, drove to old Goa to see Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral and Francis D'assissi. Gave a lift to a man who said he would show us the road to old Goa, but he turned out to be heavily drunk, so had to put him in a bus, halfway down the route. Drove via old houses in Ribander, known for its traditional architecture, but did not see any oyster-shell windows I was looking for; since we were late, couldn’t spend time looking at the houses. Reached old Goa only at 4:15 pm, hired a guide, and saw the churches. They shut at 5:30 pm and we just about made it to the last one! Reached Varca and packed to leave tomorrow.

Kms covered: 118 kms

Total distance so far: 1369

Day 11 - 25th Jan, Gokarna

After breakfast, checked out and left for Gokarna. Reached Gokarna in 3 hours. Had lunch at ‘Purohit’, at the town entrance, and it was bad! Reached the guesthouse and took an afternoon nap. Left for Om beach at 4 pm. There isn’t a good view of the 'Om', like you see in many photographs, unless you fly over the beach. Om beach is crowded! Took a motorboat ride to see Half-moon and Paradise beaches. Show shoals of silver fish jumping, and, the fins of 3 to 4 dolphins. Back in Gokarna town just before sunset, walked around...it is great for people photography! Saw the Maha Ganapati temple with a very different statue - a standing Ganesha in black stone. Went to the Shiva temple (Mahabaleshwar temple), but, could not go in due to the maddening rush as the main aarti was in progress. Foreigners are not allowed inside either temple. Had dinner at ‘Pai hotel’, a small eatery serving good local food.

Kms covered: 135 kms

Total distance so far: 1514

Day 12 - 26th Jan, Gokarna

Left for the temples at 7:45 am; had breakfast on the way. Restaurants open at 4 am or 6 am here! Republic day function for school kids going on, so had huge jams. Long queue again at Mahabaleshwar temple (might take 3 hrs, they said)! Conned by priests into taking Rs.1101 silver abhishekha so that we could go in, when we just needed to take the basic Rs.250 one. Very upset about this. The Shiva linga has to be felt from a hole in the ground. Finished the elaborate puja and visited the Parvati temple behind. Decided to go dolphin-watching again. Marginally better luck than yesterday; got dropped at Kudle beach afterwards. Lunch at ‘Shangrila’ shack - pizza, falafel and pancakes. They have rooms too. Liked Kudle beach much better than Om - sheltered, quieter, less littered, has shacks. Need to lie on the sand in the open, though, unlike Goa. 

The owner of our guesthouse freaked me out about the diving in Murudeshwar...there have been a lot of deaths this week in the seas at Goa, Gokarna and Murudeshwar! Don't want to dive now! Left for Murudeshwar at 4:30 pm and reached under 2 hours. Massive traffic jam on the 2 kms long road leading to Murudeshwar from the highway, due to the long weekend...dangerously narrow streets with 2-way cars, people and stalls! Reached our hotel after an agonizing 45 min for 2 kms! Went to Dreamz Diving to meet the team and the participants in today’s dive...feeling a bit reassured now.

Kms covered: 81 kms

Total distance so far: 1595

Day 13 - 27th Jan, Murudeshwar

Reported for diving at 8:45 am, but, a group of certified divers left first so we waited until 10:45 to board the boat. Thirteen of us, all first timers, receive a briefing on the boat. Reach Netrani Island at 12:30 pm. We only dock at Netrani, not alight from the boat. After some snorkeling for practice, we take turns diving, with our instructor. Being pushed backwards from the boat is scary. My heart pounds as I fall in, sink, and then float up....drowning and dying must feel terrible! I dive twice, but cannot descend beyond 5 metres. Being water-phobic, I keep swallowing water as I panic. Others dive 12-15 metres. Despite that, I see blue and yellow striped fish, black fish, a navy blue fish, a polka dotted and striped B&W fish, an orange fish etc. Others describe their dive as ‘life-changing’. I’m told to return after reducing my water-phobia. Am nauseous on the boat ride back...haven't eaten anything since breakfast. We eat room service lunch at 5:30 pm and are knocked out cold due to exhaustion.

Kms covered: 0 kms

Total distance so far: 1595

Day 14 - 28th Jan, Murudeshwar & Hulgol

Awoke later than planned, as we were tired. After breakfast, went to the Bhoo-kailasa museum to see the Atmalinga story narrated using kitsch statues with lifelike expressions. Saw Murudeshwar’s famous Shiva statue from the outside. Our car had a punctured tyre, so left in a hurry without going to the beach or inside the temple. Repaired the tyre and left by 11 am. Reached Edagunji temple (30 min away), to see the unique, standing ‘bal-ganesha’ statue with both tusks intact. The one in Gokarna is an ‘ekadanta’. Left for Hulgol 2 hours behind schedule! There is a steep ghat road till Jog falls, before deviating towards Sirsi. Didn't stop to see Jog falls as the water was apparently just a trickle.

Reached Hulgol after 3pm, for a late lunch. Left with Girish, our guide, for a trek at 5 pm. He tells us that the Brahmins in Sirsi are originally from Assam, invited by the ruling dynasty 800 years ago to come and settle here. Many youngsters from this generation, however, prefer living in cities; Girish foresees that in 10 years, the way of life in the village will end. Walking through the region’s famed spice plantations, we reached a sunset point, to enjoy a beautiful view, layering of trees and flocks of birds returning home. After sunset, saw the village the blacksmith work at his home-office. He’s been working from 5 am to 8 pm for 30 years now, using cold water, fire, hammer and a metal file to make implements and instruments. Also went to a home producing sugarcane and jaggery and saw the process of making jaggery. At least 50 people drop by at the house each day, to drink sugarcane juice. They refused to take any payment for the numerous glasses we’d gulped down, saying we’re guests; a moving gesture.

Kms covered: 165 kms

Total distance so far: 1760

Day 15 - 29th Jan, Hulgol

Had a sumptuous breakfast of local specialities, cooked by women from the village. A 13kms long trek lay ahead. First, walked till a lake, spotting many birds in the forest along the way. Went to a viewing tower by the lake, and saw a huge flock of ducks flying around in circles. Next, trekked to a 17th century Vishnu temple with carvings similar to Belur-Halebidu. Ate our packed lunch and napped a while, in the shaded temple courtyard. On the way back, sprained my knee while looking at the sky and walking, but had no choice except to continue on foot. Stopped at some Jain monks’ tombs; Jains have been in Sirsi since many centuries. Lastly, spent a lot of time at Sahasralinga, where Nandi statues and Shiva-lingas float in the river Shalmali. Wading through the river was a great way to spend time till sunset. After returning to the guesthouse, I rested my knee while hubby went with Girish to the village ‘games club’, to play Carrom.

Kms covered: 2 kms

Total distance so far: 1762

Day 16 - 30th Jan, Bhadra

We were ready to leave after breakfast, when the sight of about 20 Malabar pied hornbills on a tree distracted us. We also went to the village Ganesha temple next door and saw the statue of Huliyappa, the guardian tiger god. We finally left for Bhadra an hour behind schedule, via Sirsi & Shimoga. We reached Bhadra after a 4-hour drive and ran to have lunch as it was almost 3 pm. Our room on the island has a beautiful view! We left for the jeep safari at 4 pm - saw a few mammals and many birds. Also, hornbills sitting on the road! Today has been unbelievable hornbill luck!! Returning at 6:30 pm, we had tea and snacks. A group of cricket coaches have come here for some seminar...a bit annoying because their presentation occupies the whole dining hall, pushing us to a dingy corner during dinner, besides being extremely noisy.

Kms covered: 189 kms

Total distance so far: 1951

Day 17 - 31st Jan, Bhadra

The boat safari began only at 7 am, due to mist. Saw Ospreys at very close quarters! Back by 9 am, we breakfasted and napped. The afternoon boat safari was only at 4:30 pm, due to heat. We again had 4 sightings of Ospreys....We'd clicked a lifetime's supply of Osprey photos by now. Back in the evening, we debated about Halebidu the next day; seeing it on the way the Bangalore seemed tight. Should we stay the night at Hassan? But, rooms were expensive so we gave up. The cricket seminar got over in the evening, but most coaches were still around. They apologized for disturbing us yesterday.

Kms covered: NIL

Total distance so far: 1951

Day 18 - 1st Feb, Bhadra & Halebidu

Left for the jeep safari at 6:30 am and returned only at 9 am. Activity was low due to the cold weather and darkness; had a good Barking deer sighting, though. Managed to check out only by 11 am and reached Halebidu in 2 hours. Had lunch at the KSTDC hotel opposite the temple, and the food was bad! Halebidu’s temple looked small in comparison to Belur and it seemed like we’d be done in an hour. And then, we saw the ornate carvings; more so than Belur! Belur temple’s plan has 32 star-like pointed surfaces, but Halebidu has 64, so, more surface area! We were spellbound at the details and the Nandi statues too. We spent time at the temple till 4pm and rushed after that. We drove to the nearby Jain basadi to see the beautifully polished pillars. There was a road excavation on the way to the ruined Kedareshwara temple so we decided to skip it. We left for Bangalore at 4:30 pm, stopped for another round of chai and reached Bangalore by 9 pm.

Kms covered: 347 kms

Total distance so far: 2298

Road-trip summary: 17N/18D, 7 bases for accommodation, 2300 Kms

See this link for some photographs from the road-trip:

http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2013/02/january-on-wheels.html

Stories from various parts of this road-trip can be read here:

Bhadra: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2013/10/bhadra-still-water-still-mind.html
Gokarna: http://nomadandabag.blogspot.in/2014/05/juggling-identities.html

Hotel details for this trip are here:

coming soon

Bangalore: what your guide-book may not tell you

For a city that’s often visited, surprisingly little is written about it. I often get asked a lot of questions about the city, from a motley bunch: visitors on business, their families who tag along for a holiday, travellers using Bangalore as a stop-over en-route other places in Karnataka, people living in the city looking for a place to eat or visit, or, students moving to the city.

If you’re not worried about travel, stay or other miscellaneous information, skip this post and go straight to what you can do in Bangalore. And, read this to see what Bangalore offers those who want to wine & dine. For the others, here’s my attempt at deciphering the city fondly called ‘Namma Bengaluru’ or ‘Our Bangalore’. Hopefully, it’ll answer at least a few questions travellers have.

Let’s begin with how you get here

Arrival by flight

If you’ve flown in & have a lot of luggage, or, are a group of 3-4 people travelling to the same destination, a taxi is a good option to get to the city from the airport. Just walk out of the airport building, go to the designated taxi stand & board one. They're metered and air-conditioned taxis.

If you don't have too much luggage, buses are convenient & economical. You can board any of the red, air-conditioned Volvo buses from the bus station outside the airport. This link will help you figure out the bus number you need to take: BMTC volvo bus service

There is also a help-desk at the bus station entrance. The staff there can guide you to the right bus number. Alight at the stop nearest to your destination and take an auto from there. Or, have somebody pick you up.

Arrival by train

If you’re chugging into the city, pick from City station, Cantonment station, Yeshwantpur station or any of the other smaller stations, based on the train’s scheduled stops and the nearest station to your hotel / destination. All stations have a pre-paid auto counter with fixed fares, so you can pay & board one, without the hassle of haggling with auto drivers. They're shut if you arrive post 10:30 pm or pre-dawn, though. Of course, pre-paid autos work only if you have little luggage (1 or 2 carry-on sized, with a maximum of 1 or 2 people in the auto).

Stations unfortunately do not have a comprehensive ‘any-time’ taxi service like the airport; however, a fledgeling service of ‘Fast track’ taxis or some yellow-coloured cabs is available for you to try. The counters should be located near the pre-paid auto counters. Else, you’ll need to arrange for a hotel pick-up or ask family & friends to pick you up.

The City station is also located opposite the Majestic bus terminal. If you have almost no luggage, and are familiar with the city, take a bus. Help is a little hard to come by here, if you are unfamiliar, as it is a vast bus terminus.

Now, where do you stay?

The city has no dearth of hotels; from grand old properties to contemporary business hotels. If you want budget options, look at basic lodges and small hotels. Choose your accommodation wisely, though, to cut down on commute as much as possible. If you need to work at an office in Whitefield or South Bangalore, it would be pointless to live near MG road. Choose an area close to your work-place. But, if shopping & sightseeing is what you’re here for, stick to areas around MG road.

For stays longer than a week, these are some options you have:

If you need a place for a few weeks, try Serviced apartments. They work well as you get a furnished apartment to yourself, with basic appliances & laundry facilities. Many also have breakfast options. 

For a few weeks, another option is to ask for a discounted rate at hotels or home-stays; some may oblige.

For those looking to stay for a few months or for stays of a year or more with a low budget, consider a paying guest accommodation (called PG). This is a popular choice of accommodation amongst working professionals & students. They have basic rooms (shared by even 3 to 4 people), with shared bathrooms. You get a bed and a cupboard or shelves. Common facilities may also include a TV & a fridge. Meals are also provided in some PGs, while some may have kitchens you can cook in. Choose your PG wisely; else, you’ll be roughing it out a bit. A few up-market PGs have a limit of 2 people per room and have rooms with attached bathrooms. Most PGs require a deposit upfront & then, a monthly rent.

For stays of a year or more, with a larger budget, you can try renting an apartment. This requires you to pay a deposit upfront & then, a monthly rent. If your stay duration is just a few months, you may not find too many people willing to rent you an apartment, but, asking them doesn't harm. 

Choose any of these options depending on your budget & preferences. If you plan to rent or get a PG accommodation, stay at a hotel for a few days when you get to Bangalore & browse through newspapers (Ad Mag or similar papers, which have rental listings) or get in touch with brokers. See the apartment before you finalise it; doing it based on photographs before you get here may be unwise. If you’re here on work, you can also get in touch with your office in Bangalore; your colleagues can help you find a convenient place nearby.

Off-beat stay options include one of the many spas, wellness resorts or ashrams at the outskirts of the city.

Shopping 

Sarees (Saris) & fabrics 
Sarees (Saris) constitute the bulk of traditional clothing in India and are worn by many women. Fabrics, weaves, patterns and designs of sarees vary geographically and are influenced by the weather, art, traditions and culture of a particular state in India.

Karnataka is famous for ‘Mysore silks’. These can be purchased at KSIC showrooms across Bangalore. Karnataka is also known for its Ilkal and Kasuti embroidery sarees. Other than these three local weaves, generic Indian sarees too are available in plenty at the shops mentioned below. If you don’t wear sarees, you can buy fabrics to use as you like.

Chikpet is a crowded market area with shopping to suit all budgets. I've bought Sarees from Laxmi Silks in Chikpet & found some good variety there. Of course, there are many shops around so definitely check them out before you decide. On MG road, you have Vijayalakshmi silks, Prasiddhi silks & Deepam (good collection, but, very expensive). Another store near MG road is the Mysore Saree Udyog at Commercial Street. In South Bangalore, Angadi silks in Jayangar has unique and reasonably-priced sarees of different weaves.

Souvenirs

Bangalore is famous for Sandalwood handicrafts. The Cauvery Emporium on MG Road is a good bet. Also look for sandalwood sachets, which are great to place inside your wardrobe (if you like the fragrance) and make for inexpensive gifts for friends & family back home.

Bidri-ware is another option in handicrafts (black metal inlaid with silver - very attractive, but, very heavy if you already have lots of luggage).

Look out for wooden toys called 'Channapatna toys'; they're very innovative & use non-toxic colours. If not in Bangalore, you can also buy this at Channapatna, a small town en-route Mysore, where this craft originates from.

Rarely, you can also find 'Yakshagana' masks or 'Gombe aata' puppets.

All these arts & crafts are specific to Karnataka, the state where Bangalore is located. Other than this, generic Indian souvenirs are available in plenty.

Sight-seeing, activities & day-trips

Bangalore may not look like it has many sight-seeing options, and, compared to a lot of other cities, choices are limited. But, if you scratch the surface, there are enough and more options to entertain you for 2-3 days. Bangalore is also blessed with many day-trip and weekend trip possibilities within easy access. Consider this - I travel more often than the average person, yet, I still have many places to see and enjoy my weekends in.

Staying in central Bangalore (around MG road) will allow you to walk easily to some of the sights. For others, you will still need to hire a vehicle. For those unfamiliar with travel in India, travelling by autos or local buses is a challenge and recommended only for the adventurous. But, I find that some friends who visit do like to try it out, despite the problems, which is why I've mentioned the option. Hiring a car for the day is much simpler and highly recommended. Due to the unfortunate lack of a good public transport system, most locals too use cars to get around. The fairly new metro system connects a few localities in Bangalore (broadly: MG road, Ulsoor, Indiranagar and Byappanahalli) and is gaining popularity.

Cars can be hired from one of the many agencies listed online. If you have a vehicle but do not want to drive, driver rental services too are available. 

I would recommend going around the city yourself. Most sightseeing trips I know do a hop-skip-jump through all sights. If you do it on your own, you have the flexibility of staying as long as you want, at places you like. Get a good guide-book, though, as a lot of sights do not have guides available. Another option you have is to hire private guides or contact agencies like I've mentioned in this post.

Photography is allowed at most places except inside some like the Bangalore palace and the HAL Aerospace museum. In temples, priests do not encourage taking pictures inside the inner sanctum. You can click the temple from outside and indulge in some people-photography. 

While many trendy Bangaloreans dress pretty much like people around the world, it is advisable to dress modestly (no 'skimpy tops' or shorts) while visiting places of worship.

Check my detailed recommendations on what to visit, here.

Food & Drinks

Read about what Bangalore has to offer and about my recommendations & favourites, here.

Miscellaneous information

Solo woman traveller?

It's okay to travel alone in Karnataka as long as you take some precautions. Book good accommodation. And, annoying though it is to advise this, dress 'conservatively' to avoid attention. Use public transport wherever possible (buses & trains) to travel overnight between destinations; you'll feel safer in a crowd than travelling alone by a hired taxi. For some places, you can hire a guide; you get a better insight into the place & some company as well. People all around Karnataka are very friendly. I wouldn't worry excessively about travelling solo, but, at the same time, it would be wrong to say that it's totally safe.

Bangalore, I'm sorry to say, is not very safe for women, especially after 8 pm. This isn't meant to scare you off, but, just to let you know that you have to be careful. There are autos & buses to get around but I wouldn't advise that you travel alone in autos after 9 pm. Demands of excess fare and refusal to ply to your destination are the least of your worries. If you do have a car, you should be better off. Get a cab, booked through a reputed agency or use your hotel cab, even if it costs way too much. In any case, take all the precautions that you usually would, in any new city / country.

Money & payments

You can use your credit card at almost all shops, restaurants & hotels. It's the smaller road-side stores & eateries that don't accept them. You can pay many air-conditioned cab services using a credit card. Visa & Mastercard are most widely accepted. Amex is not accepted everywhere, so, check. I've had family & friends with American and European accounts use their cards easily; just ensure you notify your card companies about your travel plans before you leave. ATM machines in India require a 4-digit pin so you might want to check yours. An option is to retain your 6/7 digit pins on some cards but change at least one card to a 4-digit pin.

I wouldn't advise paying using foreign currency like Euros or Dollars. Most places wouldn't accept them anyways. Even if they did, you will get a very poor exchange rate. Changing money on Saturdays / Sundays is usually not a problem. But, beware as some agencies work on Saturday only until lunch time (1 or 1:30 pm) and may be shut on Sundays. I think most of the bigger forex agencies should be open.

Shopping and entertainment

The smaller neighbourhood convenience stores or small super-markets open from about 8am. Malls and larger stores open 10 am onwards. Stand-alone stores  (not within a mall) may be shut on Sundays, though, increasingly, many choose to remain open.

Movies can be watched at multiplexes in any of the ubiquitous malls around Bangalore. Smaller, stand-alone theatres which are economically-priced are hard to come by nowadays. Some of them still hanging around in the face of demolition are: Urvashi, Symphony, Rex, Abhinay, Vaibhav, Cauvery, Vision cinemas, Innovative multiplex etc.

Walks, runs & jogs

Avoid jogging or running along roads. Even if you want to, you can’t; most roads don't have footpaths (pavements). Cubbon Park & Lalbagh are great for running. Of course, it depends on whether they are easily accessible to you (distance from where you intend to stay). If they're not, no sweat; most areas of Bangalore have smaller parks called 'mini forests' with a paved track where Bangaloreans step out for their morning walk & jog. Attire - many women nowadays do run in shorts as well. Most, though, wear capris or track pants. If you are very uncomfortable in something longer, it's okay to stick to your shorts. Similarly, wearing a T-shirt with a sleeve or a basic sleeveless top attracts less attention than a spaghetti / racer back.

Guide-books

If you are staying in Bangalore for a few months and plan to utilise your weekends, buy ‘21 Weekend getaways from Bangalore’ by the Outlook group. It's not too comprehensive, but, handy enough.

Travel forums like tripadvisor.com and indiamike.com have a lot of information and inputs from travellers and locals. They can be used to answer specific queries you may have.

For a light read, you can try "Bangalored" by Eshwar Sundaresan. It has a collection of short narratives by non-Bangaloreans about their lives in the city they now call home. There's also a bit of history thrown in at the end, about some places in Bangalore.

Disclaimer:

None of the links in this post are sponsored nor have I been paid to ‘recommend’ them. All links mentioned here are links that I, family or friends have found useful. 

Bangalore: what to do?

Bangalore may not look like it has many sight-seeing options, and, compared to a lot of other cities, choices are limited. But, if you scratch the surface, there are enough and more options to entertain you for 2-3 days. Bangalore is also blessed with many day-trip and weekend trip possibilities within easy access. Consider this - I travel more often than the average person, yet, I still have many places to see and enjoy my weekends in. Read this to get an overview of modes of travel in Bangalore.

Explore quintessential Bangalore - the garden city & erstwhile pensioners' paradise. After taking in its history & culture, unwind by focusing on what makes it a lively city for the youth: shopping, pubbing & entertainment.

What is Bangalore famous for?

Cultural performances

Bangalore is always abuzz with activity: dance performances, music concerts, plays & art exhibitions. With culture hubs across the city, take your pick from free or paid events. These are listed in the local newspaper & in magazines like ‘Time-out Bangalore’. Definitely attend an event while you are in the city, to understand what Bangalore’s about. 

Festivals & shows

Bangalore hosts many festivals & shows; some quirky, but, all fun. Enjoy the Kite festival, Groundnut fair, Mango festival, Flower show, Cake show, Aero show or Art & handicraft shows, to name a few. Religious festivals like Ugadi, Sankranti, Ganesh Chaturthi, Navratri, Diwali, Id & Christmas are celebrated with much fervour. Visit markets & places of worship at the time, to partake the merriment. Do check if any of this is on while you are here.

Pubs

Bangalore is known for its pubs and going to one is one of the ways to feel the pulse of the youth. From pubs playing heavy metal to rock to college classics to even Bollywood numbers; there is a pub to suit every taste. Pubs are most crowded on Friday & Saturday nights. Weekdays are more relaxed with people dropping in after work, with colleagues or friends. Expect loud music, dim lighting, finger-food, head-banging & singing along to your favourite songs.

Attractions – the usual suspects

Mg road

Erstwhile South Parade is Bangalore’s shopping & entertainment hub, along-with nearby Brigade road, Church street & Commercial street. Old-timers reminisce fondly about the grand boulevard this once was. Many old landmarks have been torn down to make way for characterless glass buildings. The metro running over the road proved to be the proverbial nail in the coffin for MG road’s beauty. Thankfully, some of the vibe still survives. Walk along & enjoy a few gems that survived the massacre. The brand new MG road boulevard provides an impetus to artists. Also, the upper level of the boulevard makes for a lovely walk amidst tree canopies.

Cubbon Park

Cubbon Park dons many hats: a green lung in the heart of the city that also hosts a library, museums, a tennis academy, an aquarium, a toy train and many statues & pavilions. It’s probably one of the only parks to have a busy road cutting through it. Luckily, it is big enough for you to enjoy without worrying about being run over by a vehicle. In the wee hours of the morning or in the evenings, it’s a jogger’s paradise. Spring adds to the beauty of this park, with the lovely & colourful Tabebuia trees in full bloom.

Vidhana soudha & Attara Kacheri

The neo-dravidian style Vidhana Soudha is the seat of the state legislature while the red Attara Kacheri houses the High Court. In 2005, an annex called the Vikas Soudha was inaugurated, designed as an exact replica of the Vidhana Soudha. Though these buildings cannot be visited, they can be viewed from the outside.

Bangalore palace

The Bangalore Palace was the private residence of the royal Wodeyar family. Built to resemble Windsor Castle, this quirky palace is filled with an interesting & eclectic collection of art and paraphernalia from a bygone era. The palace grounds are a popular venue for rock concerts & other music events.

Tipu Sultan’s palace & fort, KR market, Bangalore

One of Bangalore’s busiest markets, the KR market, hides this surprise: an elegant palace built by Tipu Sultan, with Teak pillars & frescoes. Though incomparable to the more famous Tipu Sultan’s palace at Mysore, this is one of the relatively unknown monuments of Bangalore. Visit this palace along-with the ruins of the fort. Also nearby are a temple & a mosque.

ISKCON temple

This temple is built & managed by the International society for Krishna consciousness (ISKCON). Built in an unconventional, contemporary style derived from traditional architecture, this temple has its share of believers as well as detractors. Many find it a tad too commercial. An interesting & different temple to visit.

Lalbagh

Botanical gardens planned during Hyder Ali & Tipu Sultan's reign, Lalbagh is South Bangalore's green lung. Its historic significance increases manifold when you consider that the 'Lalbagh rock' dates back to 3000 million years ago and is one of the oldest rock formations on earth. The gardens also encompass one of the famous watch-towers built by Bangalore's founder, Kempegowda. Host to rare & exotic plants, a lake, the annual flower show and a glass-house, Lalbagh juggles many roles. Visit to doze under a tree, spot birds at the lake, take a heritage walk or to exercise, like the locals do.

Bull temple (Nandi temple)

Located in Basavanagudi, this temple built by Kempegowda in the Dravidian style, contains a huge granite monolith of Nandi. The temple grounds are also host to the annual groundnut fair in Nov / Dec. The nearby Dodda Ganesha temple & Bugle rock garden can also be visited.

Ulsoor Lake & Gurudwara

The Ulsoor Lake, located in the city center, went through a phase of being thoroughly neglected, before being spruced up again. Boating is a possibility here. A visit to this lake can be combined with a visit to the nearby Gurudwara; Bangalore’s largest.

St. Mary’s basilica

St. Mary’s basilica, in bustling Shivajinagar, is built in the Gothic style, with stained glass windows. It hosts the St. Mary’s feast each year, in September. Devotees throng the basilica during the feast, which culminates in a procession with a chariot.

Other churches and temples

Some other temples you could visit are the Kaadu Malleswara temple in Malleswaram or the Gaavi Gangadheeswara temple at Basavanagudi. Churches include the St. Marks cathedral, the Holy trinity church and Hudson memorial church to name a few.

Day trips from Bangalore

Few cities offer such a variety of options within easy access. Be it arts & crafts, history, architecture, hills, rivers or forests; Bangalore is as easy to escape from as it is to explore.

Nandi Hills 
Once the summer-retreat of Tipu Sultan, it’s a good place for hiking & birding. The hill also has temples dating back to the Chola period. The hills offer great views of the surroundings. It gets extremely crowded on weekends, so weekdays are a better bet. It’s best to visit in a group and not linger after dusk unless there are crowds.

Channapatna

Famous for its eponymous toys, Channapatna is a great place to visit if you are curious to know how these wooden toys are made. This traditional craft is protected by a geographical indication (GI). The small town has a few factories & a few ‘home’ workshops, where you can watch craftsmen at work. While at Channapatna, you can also shop to your heart’s content, for souvenirs or knick-knacks for your home.

Lepakshi

Lepakshi, in the neighbouring state of Andhra Pradesh, is easily accessible from Bangalore. The beautiful Veerabhadraswamy temple & India’s largest monolithic granite Nandi make for a great day-trip option. Read about my Lepakshi trip here.

Shivanasamudram

This is the site of the first hydro-electric power station in Asia, set up in the early 20th century. The Gaganachukki & Barachukki waterfalls are best visited post monsoon, when there’s abundant water. It is possible to enjoy a coracle ride at Barachukki, though the safety is questionable.

Bheemeshwari

Bheemeshwari gives you the chance to spend time by the river Cauvery. The Jungle Lodges resort there can arrange for water-based activities with prior notice. Bheemeshwari is renowned for the Angling possibilities it offers, during season.

Ranganathittu bird sanctuary

Ranganathittu is a bird sanctuary that can be visited throughout the year by bird lovers. Easily accessible from Bangalore, en route Mysore, visiting this place is a great option for both children & adults. Visit early in the morning & hire a boat. November heralds in the winter migrants who stay put until March, adding to the already numerous varieties of birds you can see here.

Other day-trip possibilities 

The most well-known option is Mysore & Srirangapatna. I would advise visiting Mysore with at least a night’s stay, though. Other possibilities are the Skandagiri trek, the Chitradurga fort, the river & temple at Talacaud, the temples at Melkote and the Savanadurga-Manchanbele dam-Big banyan tree circuit, to name a few. Also see other day / half-day trip options in ‘Off the beaten path’, below.

Off the beaten path

India’s Silicon city is surprisingly unlike a metropolis at times: It offers you options to catch your breath & enjoy things at a slower pace. Go back in time with history-filled walks or look for that slice of yesterday in localities untouched by ‘development’. Catch Bangalore at her festive best & see what it feels like to be a Bangalorean.

Basavanagudi

Basavangudi is one of the few areas in Bangalore that have retained their old-world charm, yet untouched by modernization. A residential area with quaint homes, leafy roads, markets & temples, a walk here can take you back in time. Always buzzing with activity, Basavanagudi buzzes even more feverishly before festivals. There are numerous restaurants here; some, institutions in themselves. This is a good place to feast on Idlis, Dosas & the famous Filter kaapi.

Malleswaram

Malleswaram, that bastion of Tamilians in Bangalore, is another locality that is a whole world away from India’s Silicon city. Watch maamis in their kanjeevarams haggle at the market, visit a temple or two, eat local food and browse through small shops. The Kaadu Malleswara temple & Sankey tank are oases of calm amidst the bustle. A new arrival at the scene is the incongruous Mantri mall, much reviled for being the harbinger of modernization in Malleswaram.

KR market (City market)

KR Market is a busy, vibrant & crowded market in the heart of the city. Go early in the morning to watch fresh vegetables & flowers arrive for the day. A photographer’s delight, this market whips up a frenzy especially before important religious festivals. 

Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath

Chitrakala Parishat is a renowned school of art in Bangalore, with an enviable alumni list. Located in a tree-lined campus, CKP, as it is popularly known, has a museum, a store & a gallery worth visiting. The gallery has rotating exhibits while the museum has permanent displays of paintings & crafts. CKP comes alive during its much-awaited fests: the annual handicraft mela & the Chitra santhe (art market), both of which provide impetus to artists & craftsmen.

Nrityagram

Nrityagram was established by renowned danseuse Protima Bedi. This dance school is located in Hessaraghatta village, at the outskirts of Bangalore. It’s a beautiful place to watch dancers practice their art. You can drop into the nearby Taj Kuteeram for meals. A half-day trip option.

Grover vineyards

This vineyard produces Bangalore’s first indigenous wine. If you like wines, a visit to the vineyard near Nandi hills could be enjoyable, especially during the harvesting & crushing season in Feb / Mar. A day trip option.

Devanahalli Fort

The Devanahalli Fort, famed for being Tipu Sultan’s birth-place, is located beyond the Bangalore Airport, off NH7. It also houses temples. This fort is not very frequently visited & you may have the place almost to yourself. A half-day trip option.

For young kids

On the surface, Bangalore might seem like a very boring city for kids to travel in. Scratch the surface to find wonderfully varied options that children can enjoy; and so can the child in you.

HAL Aerospace museum

This is India’s first aerospace museum, which offers you a glimpse of India’s aeronautical history. Exhibits include life-size models of aircrafts, photographs & a chance to use a flight simulator. Exciting for kids & adults alike.

The Bangalore metro

The Bangalore metro is a much-awaited addition to the city. Though very unpopular for how it transformed MG Road’s skyline & buzz, this seems to be the only hope for locals dreaming about better connectivity & a congestion-free city. The novelty value of the metro is yet to wear off, with long queues at the MG road station every weekend. The train gives you a bird’s eye view of many MG road landmarks. Join the fun.

Visvesvaraya Industrial & Technological museum

Visvesvaraya Museum is fun for children & even for adults. This museum houses a treasure trove of machines & artefacts related to science & technology. Its interactive exhibits make this a great place for children to develop their love for science & de-mystify facts.

Bannerghatta national park and zoo

I’m not a big fan of zoos or animal enclosures. However, if you are travelling with kids, they might enjoy a visit to the Bannerghatta zoo and the butterfly park. The zoo has its usual collection of animals. You can also go on ‘safaris’ in an enclosed van and see animals roaming about in the open (it’s actually a large, fenced boundary). This is definitely not a substitute for a visit to the forest!

Other kid-friendly places 

Other than the options above, kids might enjoy Lalbagh, with its rock, trees, lake, glass-house and buggy rides. Cubbon Park too is a good place for kids to run about, ride the toy train or visit the aquarium. Entertainment options for kids include bowling, paint-ball, go-karting, clay-modelling etc.

Have a light wallet?

If you are on a budget, fret not; most of Bangalore can be enjoyed for very little. Its pleasant weather also makes walking fun. Save up the money to spend on yummy dosas & filter kaapi.

What you can see & do for free, or, almost-free: Lalbagh, Cubbon Park, Malleswaram, Basavanagudi, Vidhana Soudha & Attara Kacheri, churches, temples, Ulsoor Lake, Chitra kala parishat, HAL museum and window shopping.

Activities

Bangalore walks

This offers you a chance to understand the various facets that make Bangalore: its history, architecture, culture & landmarks. Choose a facet that interests you. Check out the well-known bangalorewalks.com or the new bluefoot.in.

Birding

Though it may be difficult to believe, Bangalore is home to numerous birds, besides welcoming migrant birds each winter. There is an active birding group (bngbirds) that meets each Sunday, at a pre-fixed location. If you enjoy birding, join the group on a Sunday morning. It’s a great way to meet & acquaint yourself with the city’s feathered residents. If you want to bird alone, the internet has good resources on birding locations & bird lists for Bangalore.

Trekking & outdoor activities

The Bangalore Mountaineering Club, at bmcindia.org, organise a lot of mountaineering, trekking & adventure trips which are also easy on the wallet. This is also a great way to meet like-minded, outdoorsy people. 

Cycling

Bangalore has a growing cycling community and you can frequently see cyclists riding to the city outskirts on weekends. Cycling in villages outside Bangalore makes for a great day trip or a half-day trip. Try icycle.in, artofbicycletrips.com or veloinvillage.com.

Disclaimer:

None of the links in this post are sponsored nor have I been paid to ‘recommend’ them. All links mentioned here are links that I, family or friends have found useful. Websites mentioned under ‘activities’ are merely pointers and I am not responsible for the quality of their services.